Hi Roger;
Anyone know off the top of their melon what size the bolts
are for bolting the removable 4Runner top to the bed rails? Gotta get one that’ll trip the do-hicky that
allows control of the rear window winder downer and upper. Spanks in advance!
-- Darin
Hi Darin;
You’ll find the bolt specifications on my 4Runner
removeable top page: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#TopInstallation
They are all M8-1.25, various lengths (15 and 35mm)
depending on location.
Hi Roger;
I hope you can help me.
I found your web page on how to find and replace the resistor pack on a
Toyota pickup. I couldn’t find the pack
in my truck either (1987 P-U). After
looking at your article and at the included pictures.....I still can’t! It was very hard to try to visualize from
your picture where the resistor pack is.
I couldn’t recognize the area shown surrounding where the pack is shown
in your picture. So I did what you did
and followed the wires out of the bottom of the blower motor. They both lead behind the glove box into the
area behind the fan switch. I have
removed the radio and glove box and can access all the wiring and connectors. I can see that one of the blower wires goes
into a relay and the other goes to the fan switch. I think I can see everything up in there but
can’t see the resistor pack if it is there.
I removed all the carpeting in the passenger side and the kick panel and
speaker grill and speaker too. I can see
everything there. No resistor pack. Any ideas that you have would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.....Den.....
Hi Den;
The resistor pack on my ‘85 4Runner is on the firewall
bulkhead, behind the glove box. Its up
behind the glove box and about 3” from the fan motor about 10” above the
floor. Are you sure the “relay” is not
the resistor pack? Should be between the
switch and the fan, a squarish white plastic plug. You can see a picture and more information on
my web page:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml#BlowerResistor
Hi Roger;
I have an ‘89 4Runner 42R-E engine, and I’m having the
same problem you described in the fuel pump section. Since we have basically the same model for
body parts, I thought I could use your article to find/replace the fuel
pump. But when I lifted the back seat, I
saw a cap to the fuel tank, and not the image you displayed. I then went to AutoZone.com to see where the
part is for my particular model, and it told me it was mounted inside the tank.
So I opened the cap, and the only thing I’m seeing are
rods for measuring/sending fuel, but no pump.
I looked from gas tank to EFI/Engine, but I can’t find it. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Also, I can’t locate the fuel filter. Do you have one? 2 separate repair shops told me they can’t
find it either. I’m getting frustrated
because I’m convinced I have the same problem you have, but I can’t find a
solution either professionally or on my own.
I appreciate any advise you can give me.
Hi Kevin;
The fuel pump is in the tank, beneath the hatch under the
rear seat. Its a round flange with 8 or
so screws holding it in, has fuel lines and an electrical connector hooked to
it. Easy to remove and replace, but
usually is not the problem, the pumps rarely fail.
The connectors I show on my page:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump
are for an ‘85, in the later trucks, the fuel pump test
jumper is in the diagnostic box in the engine compartment, labelled “Fp” and “B+”.
To find the fuel filter, look in the passenger-side front
wheel well, remove the rubber wheel well flap and the 4 bolts that hold the
access panel in place. Look straight
inside and find the oil filter and then move towards the back of the engine
about 6”, filter is a round black canister bolted to the block, above the
starter.
Hi Roger;
This weekend I’m going to be installing a set of
polyurethane body mounts on my ‘85 4runner.
My problem is I can’t find the torque specs for the mounting hardware. Any help is much appreciated.
Hi Dan;
I was unable to find any exact specifications in the
Toyota Factory Service Manual, but based upon the bolt size and grade (Standard
Bolt Tightening Torque - Appendix B, ‘85 Pickup/4Runner Factory Service Manual)
as well as some information from other sources, it seems that 20-30 ft.lbs. is
about the right torque for the body mount bolts (same for pickup bed
bolts). I’ve documented that information
on my web page:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Docs/BodyLift_HowTo.shtml#TorqueSpecs
Hi Roger;
Have a shortage to the fuel pump. It keeps blowing the EFI
fuse. Any suggestions? Has an overhauled motor and only about 3,ooo miles on
it. Thank you much if you can help me in any way! A 1991 Toyota 4x4 truck. PUDDINDYKES@aol.com
My advice would be to isolate the problem, disconnect the
fuel pump and see if the fuse still blows.
If so, there may be a short in the wiring some place between the fuse
and the pump. If the fuse does not blow
with the pump disconnected, try applying power directly to the pump and see if
you can measure the current draw. I like
to use
a 10A battery charger with an ammeter on it, lets me see
what kind of current something is taking without too much risk of damage. If the pump does not spin up with power
applied directly, then it may be plugged internally or has siezed up due to the
tank being run dry. The gasoline both
cools and lubricates the pump, so if its been run dry, it can be damaged. On the pickup, you’ll need to drain and lower
the gas tank to access the fuel pump.
Its screwed into a flange on top of the tank, towards the front. There is a drain fitting under the tank,
remove the skid plate to access it. 6
bolts hold the skid plate on and 6 more bolts hold the tank up.
[A reply from PUDDINDYKES@aol.com]
Hi Roger;
He has already done all this. The fuse still blows. He
will look for the short from fuse to pump like you said. Thanks so much!
You can also pull the circuit opening relay (located in
the passenger side kick panel area) and see if the short is between the fuse
and relay or relay and pump, this page has some information on that part of the
circuit:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump
Electrical troubleshooting is sort of a “divide and
conquer” task, split the problem in half and eliminate the part that’s OK and
concentrate on the part that’s broken. I
would then check the wiring that runs along the inside of the frame on the
passenger side to the fuel pump. That’s
where it is most exposed and it could be shorting where one of the clamps hold
the wiring in place.
Note:
If you are searching for, building, modifying, or maintaining a Toyota 4WD truck, send your Truck Tech questions to Roger Brown at <TruckEditor@tlca.org>. I’ll try to answer your questions with authority!