Here is some important recall information from http://www.nhtsa.gov/
Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 05V389000
Mfg’s Report Date : SEP 06, 2005
Component : STEERING:LINKAGES:ROD:RELAY:CONNECTING
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 977839
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, IF THE STEERING WHEEL IS REPEATEDLY TURNED UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS WHERE HIGH STEERING EFFORT AND POWER ASSIST ARE REQUIRED, FOR INSTANCE, WHEN FULLY TURNING THE WHEEL WHILE THE VEHICLE IS STOPPED, A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE STEERING RELAY ROD.
IF THE VEHICLE IS CONTINUED TO BE OPERATED IN THIS CONDITION, THE RELAY ROD MAY FRACTURE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE STEERING RELAY ROD. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING LATE SEPTEMBER 2005. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT TOYOTA AT 1-800-331-4331.
CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV/.
Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
TOYOTA / PICKUP : 1989-1995
TOYOTA / T100 : 1993-1998
I searched and couldn’t find anything...maybe because this isn’t a problem.
I’m new to crossover and don’t know how tie rod ends (TREs) are made. I got an old Marlin Crawler crossover setup with FJ-80 TREs. On the draglink on the left hand threaded side, when I try to tighten down the castle nut on the TRE it just spins the stud.
Is this a stripped TRE? Do I need a new one or can I still use this? Any help would be great...is this a total noobie question?
I’ve had this happen before. As long as the threads are not messed up, try using a clamp of some sort to force the TRE tapered stud down into the hole so it grabs. That should provide enough friction to let you tighten down the castle nut.
Regarding the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) for the A/C idle-up valve, do you know what this will cost? It is for a 1991 22re and it leaks vacuum when the A/C is on. I replaced the hoses and can still hear it hiss.
Are you hearing the hissing from the idle-up valve itself or from the VSV? The idle up valve makes quite a loud hissing sound. As long as the idle speeds up and the VSV doesn’t leak with the A/C is off, it is probably fine.
I broke off the wire connector of one of the vacuum switching valves (VSV - P/N 084600-3310) on ‘85 22re. Can someone post a picture of this thing so I can solder the wire connector back on mine? Does it even matter, I mean, is there a positive/negative or can it just connect either way like a regular on/off switch? The connector only goes on way, so I’m assuming polarity is important for this one. Also, how do you know if the coil is bad?
You can test the coil for continuity; it should be around 40 ohms. And no, polarity makes no difference. All there is inside is the coil of wire that surrounds and iron slug and a spring. Put current in the coil generates a magnetic field, which attracts the iron and opens the valve. Any polarity, even AC voltage would work. I think the only reason the connectors only fit one way is that they are all keyed so that you can’t plug the wrong connector in.
Where does the AC compressor wire end in the truck? I can follow it in to the cab but lose it after that.
The A/C compressor clutch is controlled by the A/C Amplifier. It should be located up behind the glove box. It is a module with a plastic knob sticking out labeled “RPM”.
I was over working on my brother in law’s 89 4Runner, trying to troubleshoot a front power window problem. They are not getting any power. I of course checked you website first as your site is the bible when it come to 4Runner stuff. His power window relay is not above the yellow fuses in the kick panel like posted on your site. Would you have any idea as to where the relay is? Or would you have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem? Thanks, Michael
The driver’s side kick panel is where it is on my 1985. There is just a single pole relay there that is energized with the ACC position on the ignition switch to supply power to the power window switches in the doors. I show how to bypass that “feature” to allow the power windows to operate any time on my web page:
The 1986 and later trucks and 4Runners actually have a relay module for the power windows, that is “the up and down part” instead of just switches like the older trucks had. That relay module is located inside the driver’s side door, next to the power window switch. Apparently, this module also incorporates the power switching function as well. To bypass this on the later model trucks, you can supply a constant power feed to the blue w/ red stripe wire coming out of the relay module.
Five years ago I had 3 out of 4 heater speeds working in my ‘93 pickup. I dug into the electrical system and determined my switch was bad, the resistor was OK. The missing speed worked sometimes when I wiggled the lever correctly. But I could not figure out how to remove it without removing the entire dashboard. Two years ago I lost another speed and I looked at the switch again and still couldn’t figure out how to get it out without removing the dash. The switch appears to have to move forward and there is no room. Last Sunday I lost HI speed, so I now have only LOW. Does anyone know how to get the switch out? Thanks, Jim.
There is a finger that extends down from the bracket into a recess in the top of the switch cartridge. It engages the top of the switch cartridge about 7/8” from the front of the cartridge. You need to slide something in from the side or above and pull that finger up about 1/16”, then push the cartridge back ½” and it will drop down. It might help to unplug it first.
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