Toyota 4x4 Solid Axle - Sway Bar Disconnects
	
			Installation Instructions
		
Place the vehicle on a level spot, block the wheels so it can't roll on you.  If you can't find a fairly level spot, then its is probably best to lift the front wheels clear of the ground and support the vehicle on jack stands under the frame.  If the front axle is twisted up, the sway bar will be under torsion and it will make removing the end links difficult if not impossible. Remove the skid plate from the bottom of the engine bay to gain access to the sway bar ends and brackets, especially if you are replacing all the bushings.

Remove the old sway bar end links.  A shot of rust penetrant on the bolt threads may help in removal.  Use one wrench to hold the bolt from turning and another on the nut.  Remove the bushings from one end of one side then do the same on the opposite side.  At this point the sway bar should be free to move up and down without binding.  

If you are lucky, the spacer on the stock bolt will come off easily.  If not, give is a shot of penetrant and try to loosen it up.  A pair of vice grips may be able turn it while holding the bolt with a wrench.  If nothing will break it freem you can use a hacksaw to cut the bolt off between the spacer and the bushings at the top of the bolt.  Anyway, remove the top bushings. 

If you have purchased polyurethane end link bushings, then the only parts you'll re-use with the new disconnects are the cup washers.  Otherwise you'll also be re-using the original bushings.  Assemble the quick disconnects as follows:

RH eye bolt, washer, bushing, sway bar end, bushing, washer, RH nut
LH eye bolt, washer, bushing, sway bar brkt on axle, bushing, washer, LH nut

Tighten both nuts to the point that the bushings just begin to compress a bit.  Do this on both sides.  Now you are ready to install the end-link turnbuckles.  Determine which end-link ends are the closest and start with that side.  Stick the RH (unpainted) end of the turnbuckle on the RH eye bolt (sway bar end) and the LH (painted) end on the LH eye bolt on the axle.  Start turning the buckle making sure both end threads engage properly.  Before you go too far, go to the opposite side and get that turnbuckle started as well.  Now, alternate giving each one a few turns until the end links tighten down snugly.  Since there is no way one turnbuckle can loosen up without putting tension on the sway bar, there should be no problem with them backing off.  

If you are planning to replace the sway bar bushings, now would be a good time to do so.  Remove one stock bushing and bracket, install the new polyurethane bushing (a bit of grease is a good idea), then do the other side.  If you removed the skid plate, reinstall it.

No tools are required to remove or install the disconnects on the trail.  To remove, just loosen the turnbuckles, alternating side to side (I generally find I can get one halfway out then the other one most of the way out, then remove both turnbuckles).  With a good snug polyurethane sway bar bushing, I found my bar would stay up if I rotated it up to the frame after disconnecting it.  Another option is to just disconnect one end link, leave the other one in place.  An even better option would be to used a short bungee cord to hold the sway bar end up against the frame.  Since mine stayed up on its own, even over a 3-day Rubicon Trail trip, I didn't bother with any straps.  I found if I threw the turnbuckles in the glove box, I was sure to have them at the end of the trail.

Installation is the reverse, just start on the closest end, get it started then do the other side.  Unlike other quick disconnect designs, this disconnect can be installed or removed on uneven ground.  

The only real maintenance area to watch for is if you get the threaded ends of the bolts covered in mud/grit, be sure to clean them off before installing the turnbuckle.  Otherwise, you can wear out the threads or even damage them.  If its too muddy to climb under the truck to re-install the links, it is perfectly OK to drive home without them installed.  Just take it easy and realize your truck won't handle like a sports car (after all it is a 4x4).

If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me at:

	mailto:r.c.brown@ieee.org