This data came from the Rancho Shock
Selection guide on ORC. I found and corrected a few typos in that
data, grouped it by similar mount styles and finally sorted that by
travel. Within a given shock style, you can search for the desired
amount of travel then cross reference that with the various model
numbers. Alternately, use your browser's "Find in Page"
feature to find the line for a given shock model. I have also embedded
tags for each shock model number, so you can jump directly to a given
model by just typing in the URL for each model, e.g.for RS9012 enter: #RS9012. This information was from around 2000, so you may find some older shock models NLA and some new ones not listed.
ES25 : Loop - Similar to EB1 but also has a removable metal
ES113 : Loop - 16mm inside dia.
S1 : Pin type mount
Note: It is fairly easy to swap bushings in Rancho shocks. You can buy
bushings separately and then press out the old bushing and replace it
with a different size or composition bushing.
Also, I've modified bushings to suit my needs, opening up a 5/8"
EB1 to a 3/4" hole with my die grinder
Hint: Drilling won't work, the polyurethane just stretches around the
drill bit, unless you put the bushing in a deep freeze (below 0F) for a few hours, then check the bushing up in a lathe, spin it up and run a drill bit through quickly before the poly warms up.
Red - Stock Length for 1st generation 4Runner
('84-''85 front, '84-'89 rear)
Rancho shocks come with red accordian-style boots to cover the extended
rod. While many people install the boots because the look cool or
perhaps because they think the boot will protect the polished and
chrome plated rod from damage, in fact the reverse is often the case.
The boot can trap moisture inside it which can lead to the rod rusting
which in turn destroys the seals inside the shock body itself, leading
to failure. I've never seen an exposed shock rod get pitted or
scratched from gravel and mud, but every booted shock I've seen has
heavy layers of rust on the normal unused part of the rod. However, hit
that one big bump and jam the rusty rod into the shock can and that may
be the end of the shock.
Can up or can down? The RS5xxx shocks are apparently supposed to be
mounted can-down in order for internal valves to function properly. The
RS9xxx shocks are recommended to be mounted can-down, but will work
can-up, too. Can-up mounting has a number of advantages:
Less unsprung weight, as the can/valves/oil reservoir is attached to
the frame and not the axle
Less chance of can damage, as it is up and away from trail hazards
Remote control air hose routing is easier as the attachment point does
not need to move
When I ran RS5xxx, I ran the can-down and had no problems. With the
RS9xxx, I had one shock fail after a few days of use in a can-up
position. I think this was a mfg. defect as the other shock was fine.
I've since been running my rear RS9xxx shocks can-up with the remote
control setup and they work just fine. My fronts are mounted can-down
because of design constraints of my long travel shock setup.