Hi Roger;
I have a small “mystery” leak by the output shaft on the
transfer case. It gets slung up onto the floorboard, but the case itself is
bone dry & the u-joint by the transfer case is wet. Well... when I had the
driveshaft out the other night I found where it is coming from. It is coming
from the center of the output flange, like from the nut area. How do I fix
that? I checked the flange for play; it is nice and tight. Please help, I hate
leaks. Jason
Unstake and remove the nut
holding the flange to the transfer case.
Then pull off flange, apply some good silicone sealant to the splines,
slide the flange back on and either replace the old not or use a new one if the
old one is in bad shape (it is listed as Toyota as a non-reusable part). Torque
the nut to ~90 ft-lb., stake it and it should be fine. Why does this work?
While there is an oil seal that rides on the outside of the transfer case
output flange, there is nothing to keep oil from leaking out along the splines
in the center of the output flange. The sealant fills the gaps in the spline and prevents oil from leaking out by that route.
--
Hi Roger;
I haven’t had to bug you for a while. The old ‘86 4x4
pickup has been running pretty good. But it finally needs brakes and the 4x4
hub bodies are giving me a headache trying to remove them! Is there some sort of trick to removing those
darn conical washers that hold the hub body on? I have the manual-locking
wheels, unfortunately. I’ve removed the nuts and washers first, of course, and
now the Toyota manual says to make a special punch, which I’ve done. But I just
can’t see how pounding this punch into the split of the conical washer will
help to remove them! Those darn conical washers are almost all the way through
the hub body, so it seems like I could pound on the punch into one of the
splits in the conical washers until the cows come home, and nothing’ is going
to happen! There is no room for the punch to go anywhere! Now, if I was pounding from the back side,
then it might force the washers out, but pounding from the front, like the
picture shows in the manual, sure doesn’t seem to make sense! I thought I’d
write you before attempting this, since I really don’t want to wreck
anything. I did notice that there is a
threaded hole in between each stud containing the conical washers.... Can I run
bolts into each one (6), and tighten each one a little bit at a time to force
the hub body off of the disc? I did that recently to
remove the rear drums which were stuck on, when I noticed similar holes, and it worked like a champ! They were just rusted too
much onto the their hubs! Well, let me know if you have any ideas. I
appreciate your help. Thanks. Jim
Hi Jim;
I describe a few different cone washer removal tips on my
web page:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#ConeWasherRemoval
In summary, you can use a brass drift and hammer to hit
the end of the hub studs. The shock of the hammer blow will help to loosen the
compression in the cone washer and then it can spring free. This is why it is
important to keep the nut loosely on the end of the stud, keeps the washer from
flying off and getting lost. However, I
have found that sometimes the cone washers are loose on the studs but stuck in
place. This usually happens with there is some distortion in the washer that
causes it to grab onto the stud very tight. Often caused by a burr at either
end of the washer or if the split is somehow twisted. In this case, it is
necessary to insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver into the top of the split
to force the washer open and release it’s grip on the
stud. If you can find the right screwdriver blade, it’ll jam into the split and
the washer will hold tight to the blade as you lift it out. You can view an
animation of this process on the web page listed above. I have yet to find out technique that works
on each and every cone washer on every hub. So it is important to have an
assortment of techniques in your “tool bag” to use as the situation arises.
Good luck!
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Hi Roger;
Please see if you can help me find the problem. I have ‘86 truck with a 22R engine and the
alternator died. I found this after the “Charge”
and “Brake” light came on one morning.
With the truck running, I pulled the positive battery cable and sure
enough the motor died. I then replaced
the alternator, and here is where it gets fun, the lights are still on. Oh, sometimes they get dim; however, they
have yet to go fully out. I have checked
the brake fluid level switch, it checks out OK with my DMM, as does the parking
brake switch.
I have checked for shorts to the best of my Mechanical
Engineer ability and still cannot find the problem. All the fuses are OK. The combination meter appears ok. After carefully reviewing
the electrical schematic in the back of the factory service manual. The only thing I can figure out is, if maybe
the ECU died and is grounding the charge circuit. Before I spend the money to replace this
component, can you please let me know if there is anything else I need to
check?
I have seen that you are an EE, can you please lead me
down the path of enlightenment. Thank
you in advance, Jon Selzer
Hi Jon;
Brake/Charge lights are due to bad brushes in the alternator, would have cost less than $20 to replace:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/alternator_brushes/
And don’t assume the “new” alternator is good. Did you have the old or new alternator load
tested? Most auto parts stores will do
that test for you. Also, ohm out the
wires attached to the alternator, power and ground and make sure they are all
good. Not uncommon for a wire to break
or corrode beneath the insulation. It
looks good from the outside, but it won’t let sufficient current flow.
Pulling the “+” wire from the battery may have toasted the
ECU, not a wise thing to do on a modern, engine/vehicle. I would suggest that you follow the Factory
Service Manual checks for the ECU or try swapping with someone who has a
similar truck.
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Note:
If you are searching for, building, modifying, or maintaining a Toyota 4WD mini-truck (Pickup, Hilux, 4Runner, Surf, or Tacoma), send your Truck Tech questions to Roger Brown at <TruckEditor@tlca.org>. I’ll try to answer your questions with authority! And please be sure to provide a valid return address in your e-mail if you want a faster reply.