It seems the recent “Mystery Leak” problem is a common
issue, as noted by the following exchange:
Hi Roger;
My May/June Toyota Trails arrived today. The first letter
in you column discusses a “mystery leak”. Is this the leak that shows up
between the t-case output flange and the driveshaft u-joint flange? If so, is
there any disadvantage to stopping this leak by simply putting some sealant
between the flanges?
--
Hi Curtis;
I suppose you could but it may not hold well depending on
how clean you can get it and how well the sealant is applied. It is fairly easy to take the nut off, put
the sealant on the splines and then tighten the nut back down and re-stake it.
But try it and see, let me know how it works.
~~
(A reply from Curtis)
Hi Roger;
I recently replaced my transmission (on an ‘82 Hilux), so
I had both drive shafts off. At least one of the four (both ends of both
shafts) flange-to-flange couplings leaked some gear oil when separated. I guess
I just figured that was normal, so I scraped them all clean and then hit them
with a little Toyota orange sealant when re-installing. Seems to be working
fine, but I admit that your method is obviously the real fix.
--
Hi Curtis;
I can’t really take credit for the fix. I learned that trick from none other than
Marlin “Crawler” Czajkowski, when I removed the flange from the transfer case
he built for me and found the RTV-covered splines. At first it seemed a rather strange place to
put sealant, but then the reason dawned on me and I have used the “trick” ever
since. While the output flange seal will
keep gear oil from leaking out around the outside of the flange, there is
nothing to prevent oil leaking out along the splines. This is the reason for adding the sealant to
the splines.
~~
Hi Roger;
I have a 1994 4Runner.
On the 90-95 V6 transfer case, what do I torque the output flange nuts
down to? I think the book says
87ft.lb. They call them “companion
flanges”, is that right? I just got new
seals and nuts for the transfer case today.
Thanks, Jason
--
Yes, I use about 90 ft-lb.
Apply sealant to the splines, install the “companion” flange, install
washer and nut, torque to specification, and then stake the flange on the nut
into the groove on the shaft to lock it in place. Companion flange is “Toyota-speak” for the
transfer case output flange and the pinion flange. Between the “companion flanges” is where the “propeller
shaft” (i.e. driveshaft) is attached.
Those bolts should be torqued to 54 ft-lb. In fact, if you read your Owner’s Manual, you
may see a reference to maintenance tasks of “Re-torque propeller shaft and
Re-torque companion flange bolts.”
~~
Hi Roger;
What is the size of the bolt that will fit in that
threaded hole on the factory roll bar in a 1st generation
4Runner? It is not 10mm and its not 12mm
is there an 11mm or is it standard?
Thanks; Tanman
--
Hi Tanman;
The existing threaded holes in the roll bar are 7/16x20
(NF). This is the same size as the other
seat belt attachment bolts.
~~
Hi Roger;
I recently bought a 1986 Toyota 4WD pickup with a 22R
engine and manual steering. I really like to convert the manual steering to
power. Can you tell me where I can get a manual-to-power steering conversion
kit?
--
Hi Dang;
Any good junkyard should have the parts you need. Any 4Runner or 4WD pickup (22R/22RE/22RTE)
from 1986-1995 will have the parts you need.
Get everything related to the power steering, including: Pump, belt,
bolt-on 3rd pulley on the crankshaft, the bracket and tensioner
pulley, the bolts that attach that to the head, the hoses, the reservoir, the
loop of hard line that acts as a cooler out in front of the radiator and the
steering box.
If you can’t find a local junkyard, try http://www.car-part.com/
to search for a nearby one. A Factory
Service Manual would show how to properly install and connect the components,
but everything is fairly straight forward.
Pay careful attention to the orientation of the power steering pump
bracket when you take it off the donor vehicle.
It is probably the most confusing part to put back in place.
~~
Hi Roger;
Do you know if the late 80’s (like an 88) IFS 4x4
differential guts will drop into a mid 80’s (like an 84 or 85) straight front
axle? I’d like to know while I’m
shopping for a straight axle in case I find a screaming deal on something with
gears I don’t want.
--
Hi Bubba;
The rear differential will swap between the IFS and solid
front rear axle housings (both use the 8” ring and pinion gear). However, the front differentials will not
swap. The ‘85 and older front axles use
the same 8” 3rd members as the rear axle, but the ‘86 and later IFS
front 3rd members use a 7.5” ring and pinion gear setup:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#types
~~
Hi Roger;
Thanks for the great tips and pictures on your starter
repair web page (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml).
It really helped me out with a solenoid “gone bad”. I too had heard the dreaded
clicks coming from the starter for over a month and it slowly got worse. I am
fortunate to have a manual transmission that I could roll start on a small
slope in a remote campground this past weekend in SE Oregon. Only a few fly
fishermen around who came to my rescue and helped push my T100 in position.
Your step by step is far better than the Chilton’s manual
I had in my truck. But, you already know that! The copper contact on the
battery side looks just like the one in your picture. With new contacts she cranks right up now.
Thanks again. Tod
Lum
--
Hi Tod;
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, it is such a simple repair.
So many folks go for the rebuilt starter at 10-50 times the cost of
replacing the worn contacts in the solenoid.
~~
Note:
If you are searching for, building, modifying, or maintaining a Toyota 4WD mini-truck (Pickup, Hilux, 4Runner, Surf, or Tacoma), send your Truck Tech questions to Roger Brown at <TruckEditor@tlca.org>. I’ll try to answer your questions with authority! And please be sure to provide a valid return address in your e-mail if you want a faster reply.