a division of Visual Diagnostics LLC
|D-Ring Anchors||D-Ring Anchors installed|
Most Toyota pickup, Hilux, 4Runner, Hilux Surf, Tacoma and similar models include either a tow hook or some sort of factory anchor point bolted to the underside of the front of the frame rail. These were typically used to secure the vehicle for shipping from the factory to the point of sale. However, for use in vehicle recovery in off-road use, these anchor points may be less than ideal. Tow hooks are usually nice and strong, but with the hook facing downwards, the tow strap or rope often slips out of the hook if you release the tension on it. The other style of factory anchor point is usually just a piece of steel with a hole in it. It is likely only rated for holding a vehicle down to the floor of a ship, but not for yanking the vehicle out of deep mud or off a pile of rocks.
But now there is a convenient bolt-on solution for a secure recovery point. We now have a D-ring anchor that will bolt up to the factory threaded holes under the frame rail. These D-ring anchors are machined out of billet steel and designed to exceed the strength of the 5/8" D-ring shackle they are designed to work with (hole diameter is 3/4" - 19mm). For larger D-rings, it's a simple matter to drill out the existing anchor hole to accomodate the larger anchor pin. If you lack the tools to do this operation, we'll be happy to drill out the hole to 7/8" or 1" dia. for a cost of $7.50/hole. Contact us for details.
The anchors are machined of billet steel, a full 1" thick and weigh a massive 2.5 pounds (1.13kg). The anchors require a flat area of frame around the two mounting bolt holes about 2-7/8" (73mm) long with the two 12mm mount bolts spacerd 1-3/8" (35mm) apart. The anchors are 1-3/4" (44mm) tall where the bolts attach them to the frame and 2-3/4" (70mm) tall overall in front where the D-ring attaches. You can measure the clearance around your factory tie down hook holes to see if these anchors will fit your vehicle. Toyota does use a hole spacing that is comparable to standard aftermarket tow hooks, so these D-ring anchor may fit other vehicles, although the bolt thread may be different, for example 1/2x20 thread on US vehicles. So be sure and check your frame for suitable flat area and height around the frame mounting bolt holes.
If you need different size hardware, let us know the length and thread pitch of the existing hardware on your vehicle and we'll be happy to quote you a custom hardware kit. Likewise, if you want to use a larger d-ring shackle, we can drill out the hole to a larger diameter, up to 1". Drop us a note for a custom quote.
Factory solid axle trucks (1985 and older) may have clearance issues with the front spring hanger bolts and trucks with solid axle swaps might have clearance issues with spring hanger gussets, so be sure and check for adequate clearance. Minor cutting and/or grinding of the D-ring anchors may be required in those situations.
Also known to fit 1995.5-2004 model year Tacoma pickups and likely the 1996-2002 model year 4Runners.
If you want to check fitment against your vehicle, see the above dimensions for the anchor block and compare those to the existing holes in the underside of your frame. These anchors also have the same hole spacing as common tow hooks, so if you want to replace a tow hook with a D-ring anchor, this is the part for you.
We also can supply D-ring shackles to go with the anchors for a complete recovery setup (US$19.00 for a 6500 lb. (2950kg.) rated galvanized, forged steel D-ring shackle). The D-ring shackles have a screwed in pin (5/8" diameter) which lets you insert the pin through the anchor and screw it securely into the shackle to lock the shackle to the anchor. With the loop of a tow strap inserted in the body of the shackle, this gives you a secure attachment point for the front of the vehicle that can't come apart. Yet, it is easy to unscrew the shackle pin to remove the shackle and strap after use without having to worry about a knot getting too tight.
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New lower pricing and we have parts in-stck for immedeate shipment.
US$49.00/anchor (#DRingAnchor) or US$89.00/pair (#DRingAnchorPr) plus shipping
US$7.00 US postage and US$33.00/anchor international postage on the D-ring anchors.
|Single Anchor - US shipping||Pair of Anchors - US shipping|
|Single Anchor - International shipping||Pair of Anchors - International shipping|
|D-Ring Shackle - US shipping|
|D-Ring Shackle - International shipping|
International orders: Add telephone number in "Note To Seller" field of the order form for the customs paperwork. And due to weight limitations, orders for a pair of anchors will by default ship in two packages.
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Installation could not be easier. If there is an existing tow hook or tie down anchor already attached under the frame in front, remove it. Those existing bolts may be in there tight, so take your time and carefully break them free. Those bolts go into nuts welded up inside the frame, so take care you don't damage those nuts while removing the bolts.
If you do not have anything installed in the frame and the holes have been open for some time, you might want to clean them out first. To do that, if you have an old bolt that fits the hole/threads, use that, otherwise use one of the supplied bolts. First, lube up the threads inside the frame and on the bolt. Then carefully thread it into the hole and screw it in a turn or two then back it out before it gets too tight. Clean off the bolt threads with a wire brush and re-lube and repeat going in a bit farther and removing, until you can run the bolt in a good inch or so without it binding up.
Now you are ready to install the anchors, be sure the frame metal is clean under where the D-ring anchor will sit. Check the fit of the anchor against the frame and if it does not sit flat and solid, clean up any bumps or surface imperfections under the frame with a file or grinder. Might also be a good idea to touch up the paint there if you had to do any grinding. Now time to thread in the bolts. Some sort of anti-sieze compound or grease for the threads is a good idea in case you ever want to remove those bolts. Be sure to get both bolts started by hand to make sure you have not cross threaded them. Then tighten down the bolts alternately until the anchor is seated against the frame. Now torque down the bolts to approx. 100 N-m (75 ft.lb) if using thread lube, otherwise 130 N-m (95 ft.lb) for dry threads. With the torque, more is not better, so if you have to err on one side or the other, a bit less is better than a bit too much. Basically tighten up the bolts about what you use on your wheel lug nuts.
If using your own d-rings, test the fit around the anchor. You may need to file or grind a little bit to clean up the inside face of the d-ring to clear the anchor. The Shackles and/or pins often will have some excess metal from the forging or galvanization process and/or the rolled threads may make that part a bit larger in diameter. This is easy to file or grind off, just take the sharp edges off and test the fit in the d-ring anchor hole and repeat until it fits. We designed the anchors to have a hole just large enough for the 5/8" pin for maximum strength. As most d-ring anchor shackles are made overseas nowadays, the quality control is often lacking and the threaded ends end up way oversize. We do this fitting work for you with the d-rings we supply. Then as far as where to keep the shackle, in the anchor or in your truck? Both work, but we prefer to keep the shackles safe inside the truck with our other recovery gear. Outside, the anchor might unscrew and fall off or someone may walk off with it. Plus, despite the snug fit of the shackle and anchor, there will be a little rattling there, especially on bumpy roads.[Return to the top of this page]
Visitor # 13925 since 11.DEC.2011
[Last updated: 24.July.2017]