After 25 years in operation, it's time to close up shop and move on to other adventures. Thanks to all the loyal customers over the years that helped to make this all possible. The web site will remain live.
On the Toyota Tacoma Pickup (1995.5-2004) and 4Runner (1986-2002) and
4WD Pickup/Hilux (1986-1995) models, with suspension lifts over
2", the front CV axles operate at too great an angle which
increases wear and tear and can cause them to break under off-road
conditions. One simple cure for this problem is to lower the
differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the CV joints. So
with a 1" differential drop (i.e. Diff Drop) on a 3" lifted
truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a more mild 2"
lift.
A differential drop kit is also useful for cases increased engine - differential clearance is needed.
Examples include engine swaps where an oil pan may contact the front axle or differential swaps where
a larger diameter differential housing is used. In these cases, lowering the front differental can
increase the clearance under the engine.
A: 1" Diff. Drop Basic Kit
B: Stock Setup
C: Drop Spacer Installed
Pictured above (A) is the diff spacer or drop kit. It includes 2 -
1" tall x 2" OD T6061 aluminum spacers and a pair of longer
1/2" Grade 8 bolts and lock nuts to replace the stock bolt and a
pair of 8mm Grade 8.8 bolts (not pictured) to reattach the front skid
plate. In (B) above, you can see the stock differential mounts and in
(C) you can see the 1" spacer installed which in turn lowers the
differential assembly. The differential mount to the rear is left
as-is, the front differential assembly pivots down around that fixed
point.
Also available for the 1986-1995 IFS Toyota 4WD Pickup/Hilux and
4Runner/Hilux Surf models.
D: 1" IFS Diff Drop Basic Kit
E: 1" IFS Sway Bar Drop Kit
F: IFS Drop Kit Installed
Pictured above (D) is the 1" IFS front diff. drop kit. The spacers
install between the frame and front diff bushing (shown circled in RED in image F above). Pictured above (E) is the
1" front sway bar bracket drop kit. The spacers install between
the frame and front sway bar brackets. (sway bar bracket shown for
clarity, it is not included in the kit) and lowers the front sway bar
1". This does two things, one is to provide room for the lowered
front driveshaft to clear the sway bar (see clearance in image F
above). It also lowers the sway bar to help compensate for the
suspension lift, restoring the sway bar to a more neutral orientation
for better performance. This spacer kit is ideal for trucks with
"cranked up" torsion bars or with the popular ball joint spacers.
IFS Differential Drop Notes:
The differential mount to the front is left as-is, the front
differential assembly pivots down around that fixed point. The drop kit
thus will slightly increase the u-joint angle on the front driveshaft,
so it is a trade-off; lowered CV joint angles but increased u-joint
angle. Since the u-joint is operating at a near zero degree angle and
the CV joints are operating at near their maximum angles, this is a
fair trade-off. Also, the front driveshaft will only be turning when
you are actually using 4WD, it will not be turning all the time. The CV
axles can be moving all the time if your vehicle has the popular
Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD) front axle.
A diff drop will have no impact you the lift or ride height of the
vehicle. It will neither raise nor lower the front suspension. It only
affect the location of the front differential relative to the frame.
Likewise it will have no impact (positive or negative) on the front end
steering geometry (e.g. toe in, camber, caster).
Front Sway Bar Drop Brackets:
With a front suspension lift, you are in effect moving the suspension
control arms away from the frame an amount equal to the height of the
lift. One problem this can cause is that the front (anti-)sway bar, if
attached, is now no longer sitting in it's original horizontal
orientation, since the center of the sway bar is attached to the frame
and the end links are attached to the suspension control arms. This can
lead to less efficient anti-sway bar operation. Why? Because if the
ends of the sway bar are closer to level, one side will twist upwards
and the other side will twist downwards by an equal amount when you are
in a hard turn. It is the torsional stiffness of the center of the sway
bar that resists this twist and helps to level the body by controlling
the body roll (or sway) in hard turns. When the sway bars ends are down
at an extreme angle, you end up with one end twisting down farther and
the other end twisting less far down. With these unequal angles, you
end up needing more twist of the bar to control the body roll and that
means there is more body roll than you had with a level sway bar. See this web
page for a more detailed explanation...
So there are two ways to fix this issue.
The first is to add longer sway bar end links, you can either modify
your existing end links for the added length, or here is a
custom built option.
A second option that is less expensive, is to simply lower the sway bar
mounting brackets under the frame. This can be done with a simple
spacer and longer bolts. See above for the IFS Sway Bar Drop
Kit. Since the sway bar attaches about half way out on the
lower control arm, it only "sees" about 1/2 of the front
suspension lift, so a 1" drop spacer is good for around 2" of
lift. No need to be exact here, there are no "sway bar
police" out there that will be pulling you over to check your sway
bar setup. If you have a lift, the 1" sway bar drop kit will help
restore your front sway bar to it's factory geometry.
Not every vehicle with a suspension lift will need a differential drop
kit installed. How do you tell if your vehicle might be able to make
use of one? Well, there are a couple of symptoms which you might want
to look for.
Lift the front tires off the ground and then try grabbing each half
shaft of the front axle and slowly turn it through a full rotation. If
you feel any binding in the CV joints at this full droop condition,
that is your CV joints telling you that they are hitting their angle
limit. Also try this with the wheels straight ahead and at full
steering lock to test all cases. A CV joint that binds up under load
can easily snap on the trail.
If you find your CV joint boots are wearing out unusually fast, that
can be a sign of too much angle. Easy check is to examine the upper
ribs of outer CV joint and the lower ribs of the inner CV joint and see
if they are being pinched hard together on the top/bottom side of the
boots. If so, and especially if you have the stock front differential
disconnect (ADD) system and your CV joints are spinning all the time,
this can cause the ribs to wear against each other and eventually wear
through the material and cause the boot to fail. Usually the more ribs
that are touching, the less ideal the CV joint angle is.
One other fix you can try for boots wearing out is to install manual
locking hubs, if you currently do not have that type of hub. With
manual locking hubs, unlocked, your CV joints will not be turning all
the time like they do with the ADD type drive flanges. On the '95 and
earlier trucks (torsion bar front suspension), this is a simple matter
of swapping in manual hubs in place of the drive flanges. On the '96
and later trucks (coil spring front suspension) this is a more involved
swap as you need to change out more of the front end parts. You can
search on any of the popular Toyota web forums for details on doing
this swap.
Another fix for the boot wear issue is to slide the end of the affected
CV boot farther along the axle shaft and then glue/clamp it in that
slightly stretched location. Search for "Boot Slide Mod" on
any of the popular Toyota web forums for details on this simple
modification. Essentially you are just stretching the CV boot out a
little to pull the ribs apart so they are not rubbing all the time. You
don't want to stretch the boot too far or the ribs on the other side
may be over stretched and tear.
Another potential solution is to keep the CV boots clean and lubricated
with a dry silicone spray periodically. This will help to keep the
friction between the boot ribs to a minimum and keeping grit off of
them will help with the abrasion.
If you find your CV joints are wearing out or breaking more frequently
than before you installed the suspension lift, this may also be a sign
of the need to reduce the CV joint angles with a differential drop kit.
A diff drop kit will not cause a lot of loss of front ground clearance.
As is, the front diff sits higher than the sub-frame/cross members and
the diff drop will lower the diff down about to the level of the sub
frame/cross member. And the diff. housing is made of pretty thick
material to can stand up to a decent amount of abuse. After all, look
at your rear differential, it hangs down lower in back. Now, if you
have, or plan to install, a front suspension cross member, a diff. drop
kit probably will not work, as that cross member will be in the way of
lowering the front diff.
And, a related question that is quite common is should I order a diff.
drop kit with my mild suspension lift kit? Again, it all depends, on
your vehicle, on what you plan to use the vehicle+lift for and what
amount of lift you plan to go with.
Your vehicle and the condition of the front drive axles will influence
the need for a diff. drop kit.
If your CV joints are in good shape and have lots of extra travel left
in them, you may be fine. If your CV joints are worn out or are already
operating near their angle limit, then you may need a diff. drop.
If you have manual locking hubs and leave them unlocked for the
majority of the time, you may be fine without a diff. drop kit. If on
the other hand you have automatic differential disconnect (ADD) front
end and the CV axles spin all the time, you might need a diff. drop.
Of course, if you have a 2WD vehicle, no need for a front diff. drop as
you don't have a front diff.
The times a front diff. drop kit comes into play is when the front
suspension is at full droop. That is the CV axles are at their greatest
angle and thus most likely to bind up.
Now if you only plan to operate the vehicle on pavement or at most on
flat gravel and dirt roads, you may be fine without a diff. drop kit. I
can't remember the last time I lifted a front tire while driving on
pavement.
If you intend to off-road the truck and especially if the terrain leads
to frequent "wheel in the air" type of situations, a diff.
drop may help reduce the chances of a CV joint binding by lessening the
angle and load on the CV joint.
With many front suspensions being adjustable, you can raise or lower
the front ride height to suit your needs. If you raise it to the max.,
chances are you may need a diff. drop kit.
It is fairly easy to check if a diff. drop kit will fit on your truck
in case you are concerned about fitment, especially with non-stock lift
or suspension parts installed. All you need is a ratchet and socket set
and a floor or bottle jack. Simply locate the two vertical mount bolts
that attach the front differential to the frame. On the earlier 4WD
Pickup/Hilux and 4Runner/Hilux Surf models, those two bolts will be
behind the differential. On the later model 4WD Tacoma and 4Runner
vehicles, the two bolts will be in front of the differential. There are
also horizontal bolts that will attach the differential to the frame on
the opposite side of the differential as the vertical bolts, these will
not be touched. So, to check, simply place the jack under the front
diff so it is close to contacting the housing. Then loosen and remove
the two vertical bolts and let the differential drop down with the jack
until you have a 1" gap between the frame bracket and rubber
bushing on the differential housing. That is how far down the diff.
drop kit will lower your front differential. If all is clear, you are
good to go. If you find something like the sway bar or skid plate is in
the way, see the deluxe diff. drop kit options to address those issues.
If you find something like an aftermarket cross member or suspension
brace is in the way, then a diff. drop may not be suitable. One option
in that case is that we can make a custom sized drop spacer if perhaps
1/2" or 3/4" drop would fit.
What if we don't offer a diff. or sway bar drop kit for your vehicle?
Well, if you have gotten this far,
simply measure the length and diameter of the two mounting bolts and if
you think a 1" tall x 2" diameter drop spacer will fit, we'll
be happy to look into offering a custom kit for your application.
And for the sway bar, we'll need to know how it is attached to the
frame of the vehicle. Usually there is a pair of metal brackets that
hold a bushing through which the sway bar held. If those two brackets
are bolted up underneath the frame, then a sway bar drop kit is
possible. We'll need to know the size of the bolts used; length,
diameter and thread pitch. Then we'll need to know what the spacing
between the two bolts is as well as the rough dimensions of the bracket
(length and width). For the bolt holes, a center-center distance is
what we need and if those bolts are not in a line, we'll need a rough
idea of the offset of the two holes. So an example might be the bracket
is 90mm x 35mm and the bolts are 8mm (1.25mm thread pitch), 25mm long,
holes are 65mm apart in the long direction and offset 10mm from each
other in the short dimension. On the offset, that could also be stated
as the holes being offset 5mm on each side of the center line (for a
total of 10mm offset). Some things to watch for is that some vehicles
use welded in studs instead of bolts, so in that case, it will be
difficult to install much of a spacer atop the stud, but we may be able
to design something to work with that.
All the kits we currently offer were developed in this same way,
someone asked for the kit, supplied us with the basic dimensions and
the rest is history. So if you are willing to do a little measuring on
your vehicle, we'll be happy to design and build you a custom diff. or
sway bar drop kit as long as it is a suitable application. Realize the
vehicle manufactures do not provide us with a handy table of all these
dimensions. And they don't inform us when they make changes to a
particular model vehicle. They may change suppliers of parts and those
parts may have different dimensions and as long as the part works on
the vehicle it was intended for, the vehicle mfg. is happy. However,
when it comes to adding something to your vehicle like a diff. or sway
bar drop bracket, you need to make sure and get the proper sized part
and the only way to know for sure is to check the part you intend to
modify before ordering and see if it matches what we have to offer. If
in doubt, contact us with the measurements of your part and we can
check to see if that hatches one of our existing designs.
A quick way to check the sway bar geometry is simply to look at the
ends of the bar where it attaches to the suspension via the end links.
Ideally, the end links should be plumb vertical and the sway bar ends
horizontal when the vehicle is sitting on level ground. The reason for
this is the way the sway bar works is that is resists the tendency of
the body to sway or roll to the outside in a turn. When you go around a
turn at speed, the centrifugal forces through the center of gravity of
the vehicle produce an outward force which loads up the out-side
suspension and takes weight off the in-side suspension. This is the
cause of the lean you feel and see when you make a turn. The sway bar,
being attached to both sides of the suspension is forced up on the
out-side and forced down on the in-side and the bar in the center
twists to resist that uneven loading and keep the body more level that
it would otherwise be. Now if the bar ends start out horizontal at
rest, then you'll equal up and down twisting on the ends in a turn and
you'll get maximum roll stability. If on the other hand the bar ends
are already angled downward due to a suspension lift, then you'll find
the the two ends of the bar will be twisted at differing angles, one
down more and one down less. This results in less roll stability and
thus more body lean in the same turn. Since the sway bars are typically
attached to the frame in the center portion, by lowering that
attachment point, you can help restore the end of the bar towards
horizontal. Also, note that the bar ends only attach part way out on
the suspension, perhaps mid-way between the pivot point and the wheel,
so they only see about half the actual height of the suspension lift.
So a one inch sway bar drop spacer is good for compensating for a few
inches of suspension lift.
After 25 years in operation, it's time to close up shop and move on to other adventures. Thanks to all the loyal customers over the years that helped to make this all possible. The web site will remain live.
Please be sure to order the right kit to match your vehicle. The
"IFS" kits fit the torsion bar front suspension 4WD
Pickup/Hilux and 4Runner/Hilux Surf models up through 1995 (in the US
anyway). Outside the US, the kits will typically also fit the 4WD Hilux
pickups with the torsion bar front suspension. Aside from the
suspension, the other distinguishing feature is that the two vertical retaining bolts for the
front differential are behind the differential.
The other diff. and sway bar drop kits are for the coil sprung front
suspensions on the 3rd gen 4Runner and Tacoma pickups. The two kits are
not interchangeable between those generations.
The various differential and sway bar drop kits can be combined for
shipping with other parts ordered with the multiple item order form.
For international shipping, be advised that there are weight
limitations in certain size packages that preclude combined shipping.
For example with the ball joint spacers (3 lbs.) plus the IFS diff+sway
bar drop kit at ~2 lbs., this exceeds the 4 lb. small package weight
limit for USPS shipping. Two options are to place into
a medium flat rate box,
or of course the order can be shipped in two packages, both under 4 lbs.
We have a limited stock of items such as steering and driveshaft spacers, Bilstein shocks available. Let us know what item(s) you're looking for, where and how you'll want them shipped to and we'll get back to you with a shipping quote and purchase information:
Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail with a delivery tracking
number provided at time of shipment
Shipping weight approx. 2.5 lbs.
Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
Order the basic kit if you do not have a factory skid plate (or intend
to remove yours) and order the deluxe kit if you have the factory skid
plate as it will need to be lowered to install the differential drop
kit. You may also be able to elongate the holes in the factory skid
plate to accommodate the diff. drop without the added spacers of the
deluxe kit.
Below are front sway bar drop kits for use on the 1996-2002 Toyota
4Runner / Hilux Surf and 1995.5-2004 Toyota Tacoma vehicles. These will work with
the 4WD and PreRunner model vehicles. Note that the Tacoma (2-3/4"
center-center, 7/16" offset) and 3rd gen 4Runner (3"
center-center, 7/16" offset) sway bar brackets have a
different bolt hole spacing (as noted), so be sure to specify which
type you need below, and feel free to double check your bolt hole
spacing to see if it matches the above dimensions. If not, a custom
sway bar drop bracket may be possible. Also note that this drop kit is
designed to work with sway bar brackets that either attach with a pair
of 8mm bolts or a bolt and stud where there is at least 1" of
thread exposed on the stud past the end of the nut. Pictured below is
the original white UHMW polyethylene spacers, we are now using a black
UHMW at customer request.
We have a limited stock of items such as steering and driveshaft spacers, Bilstein shocks available. Let us know what item(s) you're looking for, where and how you'll want them shipped to and we'll get back to you with a shipping quote and purchase information:
And now for the Toyota Tundra pickup/Sequoia models that use the larger
10mm (14mm head size) or 12mm (17mm head size) mounting hardware for
the sway bar brackets, we now have 1" sway bar drop kits for those
vehicles. Be sure to check the bolt size on your truck, M10 is a a bit
larger than 3/8" and the smaller M8 (12mm head size) hardware like
the Tacoma pickups use is about 5/16" and 12mm is just shy of
1/2". The kit will come with a pair of 1" tall UHMW spacers
to lower the sway bar brackets, 4 - M10 bolts, about 50mm long or 4 -
M12 bolts about 60mm long.
Some of the Tundra and Sequoia sway bar brackets have a stud on one one
side with a nut and then use a bolt on the other side with a nut welded
to the bracket. You'll need to remove the studs, that are spot welded
to the bracket, prior to installing the drop spacer with longer bolts.
You'll be re-using the original nut that screwed on the stud as well as
the welded on nut with the new bolts. Now, if you find that your
Tundra/Sequoia uses 8mm bolts instead of 10mm, you can order the 3rd
gen. 4Runner sway bar drop kit above and that has the same bolt hole
spacing as the 10mm Tundra/Sequoia but uses 8mm bolts. Also, the kit in
the first row is for vehicles with offset mounting holes in the sway
bar bracket.
If your vehicle has in-line mounting holes and the mounting bolts are
~1/2" (12mm) in diameter, you'll need to order the 12mm bolt kit
that is the 2nd row of order buttons. This sway bar bracket has been
observed on some 2012 models, so best to check your bracket before
ordering. The 10mm bolt bracket has a pair of holes approx. 3"
(75mm) center-center distance and offset about 3/8" (10mm) from
each other. The 12mm bolt bracket has a pair of in-line bolt holes
3-3/4" (95mm) center-center distance. We are sorry that Toyota has
made the sway bar drop brackets so different, but that is the way they
do things. Be sure to check which type of sway bar mounting
bracket is on your truck prior to ordering.
We have a limited stock of items such as steering and driveshaft spacers, Bilstein shocks available. Let us know what item(s) you're looking for, where and how you'll want them shipped to and we'll get back to you with a shipping quote and purchase information:
Apparently 4Crawler Offroad came up with a quite useful product when we
first developed the IFS differential and sway bar drop kits. Nobody
else in the industry offered such a product and we designed this at the
request of the customer base. Now it seems that several other companies
have used our design to come up with their own offerings. So apparently
the saying "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery"
applies here as well! In fact we have noticed that some of the online
auction sellers of IFS diff. drop kits are selling almost exact
duplicates of our product and we even know now that they ordered
one of our kits and copied it. We say "almost exact duplicates"
because they missed one minor, but crucial aspect of the our design in
their copy. We mention that difference in the installation
instructions, but in order to not make it easy for the competition to
find that aspect of the design, we'll not describe it here. But it sure
makes it easy to offer low prices when your R&D budget is
negligible - as in you steal all your new designs. Oh, and to top it
off, they even our plagiarized our installation instructions, nearly
verbatim, even down to the punctuation. If these guys were writing
these instructions for a college paper, their professor would likely
fail them for plagiarism.
Option
Width in.
Width mm
Layout
PU
2-5/8"
67mm
Offset
4R-N
2-3/8"
60mm
Offset
4R-S
2-5/8"
67mm
Offset
4R-W
2-7/8"
73mm
Offset
T100
2-3/4"
70mm
Inline
We have a limited stock of items such as steering and driveshaft spacers, Bilstein shocks available. Let us know what item(s) you're looking for, where and how you'll want them shipped to and we'll get back to you with a shipping quote and purchase information:
Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail with a delivery tracking
number provided at time of shipment
Shipping weight approx. 2. - 3 lbs. depending on kit.
Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
Sway bar bracket and bushing (pictured above) not included
Which kit to order?
Order the basic kitif you do not have a front sway
bar or intend to remove it.
Order the deluxe kitif you have a front sway bar as
it will need to be lowered with the differential drop kit.
The sway bar drop kit is available separately and can be
used with other differential drop or suspension lift kits to lower the
front sway bar for better operation.
You can even make use of the sway bar drop kit if you have simply
cranked up the stock torsion bars over an inch.
Bolt hole spacing is approx. 2.5" (63mm) and offset approx.
3/8"(10mm) if you want to check fitment prior to ordering.
Some rare vehicles will have one or both of the stock diff mount nuts
welded to the upper cup on the frame bracket (less than 1 in 100
vehicles - in fact we have only encountered 5 such vehicles in the
years we have been shipping these kits). If you think yours may be
welded, an extra long bolt kit is available that lets you run the diff
drop bolt through that welded in place nut and then put a new lock nut
on top of the stock nut.
If you think you need the extra long bolt(s), add a note to seller in
the order form to indicate this requirement and indicate how many
longer bolts you'll need (1 or 2).
Easy to check for this by simply breaking each of the vertical
differential mounting bolts loose and feel up on top of the nut is
loose or not. If the nut is not loose, it is likely welded in place.
Or if you find you need the extra long bolt after ordering, you can
usually pick up a 1/2"x5-1/2" bolt at the local hardware
store or you can order one/two bolts below. Over the years we have used
both fine (20tpi) and coarse (13tpi) threaded bolts, so let us know
which type you have:
And why do we not use a longer, stock threaded bolt?
The main reason is that with the drop spacer installed, the bolt angle
is not perfectly vertical and it'll be very hard to get the longer bolt
threaded into that welded nut without cross-threading and stripping out
the nut. Also, that extra long, fine threaded metric bolt, if
available, is very expensive, so would increase the cost of every kit,
whether it is needed or not.
So by using a slightly smaller diameter bolt, you can pass the bolt
through the welded nut and install a new nut on top without the
problems of cross threading.
We have a limited stock of items such as steering and driveshaft spacers, Bilstein shocks available. Let us know what item(s) you're looking for, where and how you'll want them shipped to and we'll get back to you with a shipping quote and purchase information:
Allow approximately 30 minutes for the installation, assuming you don't
run into any rusted or damaged fasteners. You'll need an assortment of
wrenches and/or sockets plus a torque wrench to tighten the
differential mounting bolts. Read through the instructions below to
familiarize yourself with the steps involved. Note these instructions
cover installation on both:
3rd Gen 4Runner and Tacoma vehicles
(highlighted in RED)
2nd/3rd Gen 4WD pickups and 1st/2nd Gen
4Runners (highlighted in GREEN)
and cover installation of all components. Depending on your vehicle
type and kit ordered, you may not need to do every step listed below:
For Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner / Hilux Surf:
Remove both skid plates under the front of
the vehicle
Save the OEM bolts, a total of nine 12mm
bolts
Support the differential with a floor jack, if needed.
Remove factory bolts and nuts, supporting the front
(or rear) of the differential
See picture A above for the stock configuration
Save the OEM washers for re-installation
Lower differential far enough to allow insertion of the 1" drop
spacers
Install the 1" spacers between the two front
(or rear) differential supports and
cross-member
See picture B above
On the '95 and older vehicles, if one
spacer is taller than the other, install that on the farther back
differential mount.
Fasten to cross-member using new 1/2" bolts and nuts (making sure
to reuse the factory washers, if possible. If that's not possible, use
the washers supplied with the bolts. You can also use those washers to
increase the drop of the spacers by stacking them above the spacers.
We recommend that you test fit the nuts and bolts by hand prior to
installing them to make sure the threads are clean and the nuts screw
on and off easily.
Sometimes the bolt threads might have been nicked in shipping, so make
sure to check the fit of the nuts and bolts before you install them.
Once installed, you'll be working in a cramped space getting the bolt
threaded into the nut, so knowing that it should go on easily
beforehand will be helpful.
If the stock washers hang up on the bolt threads, try dropping the
bolt, head first, into a length of tubing or between the jaws of a
vise, so that its hanging from the washer. Then use a hammer to drive
the bolt out of the washer
Some rare vehicles will have one or
both of the stock diff mount nuts welded to the upper cup on the frame
(way less than 1 in 100 vehicles). If you think yours may be, an extra
long bolt kit is available that lets you run the diff drop bolt through
that welded in place nut and then put a new lock nut on top of the
stock nut.
If you think you need the extra
long bolt(s), add a note to seller in the order form to indicate this
requirement.
Or if you find you need the extra
long bolt after ordering, you can usually pick up a
1/2"x5-1/2" fine thread bolt at the local hardware store or
you can order one for US$8.00 (including US shipping or $20.00
international)..
Tighten to the factory specifications, consult the Factory Service Manual for torque
specifications
If you don't have the factory specs, 50 ft.lbs. (68 Nm) should be
adequate for this size bolt and note that our bolts use nyloc nuts, so
they do not need as high a torque as the FSM lists since the lock nut
will hold the nut in place as opposed to a very high torque.
For Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner / Hilux Surf:
Install the front skid plate using three
(3)OEM bolts on the front and two (2) new 8mm bolts and spacers in the
rear
The back of the front skid plate will
need to be spaced down to clear the now lower differential.
If needed, you may need to
elongate the holes about 1 hole diameter, so consider drilling a small
pilot hole next to the existing hole, then enlarge it and trim out the
metal in between the two holes
The holes may need to be
elongated/enlarged because the skid plate is not resting at an angle
and thus the diagonal distance between the mounting bolts is longer
than when it was resting flush.
Or you may be able to elongate those bolt
holes if you ordered the basic kit..
DO NOT TIGHTEN YET
To install the rear skid plate, elongate the
rear mounting holes, again if needed, with a round file or drill bit
for fitment
You may need to elongate the holes about
1 hole diameter, so consider drilling a small pilot hole next to the
existing hole, then enlarge it and trim out the metal in between the
two holes
Once holes are elongated, mount rear skid
plate with OEM M8 bolts
Torque all skid plate bolts to the factory
specifications
Remove the 4 bolts holding the stock sway
bar brackets to the frame (if present)
Be careful removing the bolts, if they
don't come out easily, spray some penetrating oil up inside the frame
onto the ends of the bolts to help free them.
Forcing the bolts too hard can break off
the nuts welded up inside the frame
On the Tundra pickup/Sequoia, there may
be a stud spot welded to the sway bar bracket. Use a hammer to knock it
loose and remove it, so the supplied longer bolt can fit through the
hole the stud occupied. Be sure to save the nut you removed from the
stud for use on the new bolt.
Insert the sway bar drop brackets between
the frame and the stock brackets and attach them back in place with the
longer bolts supplied.
Use of an anti-sieze compound is a good
idea.
Tighten the bolts until snug and until you just see the spacer start to
compress slightly with the larger diameter bolts.
For the 8mm bolts, 9 ft.lb. is plenty
For the 10mm and 12mm bolts, around 20 ft.lb. is plenty
The slight compliance in the UHMW spacer acts like a lock washer and
will maintain pressure on the bolt to prevent it from loosening.
At 20 ft.lb. torque, you're appling about 2 tons of clamping force per
bolt, that spacer and swar baracket won't be going anywhere.
There's no point in over torquing the bolts, you run the risk of
breaking the nuts loose that are welded inside the frame.
Feel free to apply some thread lock compound to the bolts.
After a few hundred miles of driving, its a good idea to re-check the
bolts and make sure they are still tight.
Note that this write-up is for a DIY sway bar drop kit, so ignore the
steps related to making the blocks and drilling out/threading the nuts
as you won't need to do that.
With the Tundra,/Sequoia some models may have studs welded to the sway
bar brackets. You can put the bracket in a vise and use a hammer to
break the spot welds that hold the stud to the bracket loose.
Alternately, you can center punch the head of the stud and then use a
drill bit to drill through most of the head to allow it to be removed.