NOTE: Due to high order volume and supply chain issues, it may take some time for deliveries, production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 8 weeks.
So, why in the world did 4Crawler Offroad decide to make body lift kits? There were a few reasons:
When it came time to upgrade a home-made 1" body lift, 4Crawler Offroad researched available materials and first decided to make a billet aluminum body lift block, similar in shape and size to the more common cast aluminum (at least that's what they claim they are made of) blocks, but out of stronger, solid material. The aluminum blocks were fine for a 1" lift, but a set of 3" tall blocks were made and installed, it just didn't look right. The 2" dia aluminum rod used was just not wide enough to offer support at 3" tall. While a larger diameter aluminum rod could have been used, it starts to get much more expensive and is harder to work.
After searching for a better material, Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) polyethylene rod was selected and is available in a variety of sizes perfect body lift blocks. It has all the desirable properties one would want in a body lift block. Since this rod comes in long lengths, it can be cut any length desired from 1/2" up to 3" and anything in between. It takes a fairly significant investment in machinery and tooling to work this material. Also, since the parts are built to order, adapting them to other vehicles is not a large issue. After all, lifting a Toyota 4Runner 1" is fundamentally no different than lifting a Landcruiser or other vehicle 1". If it's got a body on frame construction and some way to get a spacer between the two, you've got a body lift.
At this point, you may be wondering what the heck a body lift is and why would you even want one...
[Return to the top of this page]So why a body lift and what other lift options are there? In general there are three basic techniques available to lift a vehicle:
Usually, installing larger tires (#1) require that either #2 or #3 be done to provide adequate clearance for the tires within the wheel wells. Suspension lifts (#2) can be simple or complex, depending on what is modified and how it is done. Similarly, body lifts (#3) can be simple or complex, but are generally simpler and less complex and expensive than suspension modifications. Since the body lift only raises the body, it has less adverse impact on the vehicles center of gravity than other lift techniques, since the frame, engine and drive train remain at the original location.
If you assume a typical vehicle with perhaps 25% of it's mass in the body and perhaps 10% in the axles/wheels/tires, then look at the various types of lifts:
By raising the body up off the frame, you can gain needed room for larger tires and/or added ground clearance to protect the body from trail damage. However, a body lift will do nothing to change the operation of your suspension by itself. However, by combining a mild body lift, with a mild suspension lift may allow fitting a taller tire and result in a combined system that functions better than the individual components.
"Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
Each type of lift has its advantage and disadvantages. After all if there were just one perfect way to lift a vehicle, everyone would use that technique and you would have no other choices.
See the following section for a list of frequently asked body lift related questions...
[Return to the top of this page]Have a question not listed above, send an e-mail and we'll try to answer it.
As you raise the body higher off the frame, you may run into more issues that need to be addressed. It is difficult to give a precise list of what issue will be encountered at an exact lift height, because there are some many variations in vehicles, when they were built, how they were built, etc. Some folks can thrown on a 2" body lift and have no issues at all. Others may run into issues at a 1" lift. Basically you can think of the relationship of lift height vs. potential issues you might encounter as a probability; the higher you lift the more likely you are to run into a particular issue. So, as mentioned elsewhere on this page; "Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible."
Best to consult the installation notes for your specific make/model/year vehicle to see what sort of issues that you may encounter.
NOTE: Due to high order volume and supply chain issues, it may take some time for deliveries, production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 8 weeks.
[Return to the top of this page]
Body mounts are what connect your trucks frame to the cab and/or bed. For strength, pickup beds are typically bolted directly to the frame, while the cab is mounted with compliant bushings (usually rubber or polyurethane) to isolate the cab from road noise and vibration. Starting at the front, there are two mounts behind the bumper, two more are located at the front foot well, two more behind the front seats. Then, in the 4Runner, there are two more in the rear passenger seat well, and two more at the rear of the cargo area. The pickup has 8 mounts on the bed (4 on each side), two near the front of the bed and two near the rear. You should try to locate each mounting point, and be sure you can gain access to both the top and bottom of each mounting bolt before undertaking a body lift.
The body/bed are connected to the frame by the mounts, as described above, to brackets (or horns) attached to the frame. In a body lift, spacers are installed between the body and the mounting brackets or bushings to lift the body above the frame.
From the factory, you'll find rubber body mount bushings. Over time, the rubber cracks and weakens with age. This can lead to what is called "shudder", which is a sort of side-to-side shaking felt when hitting bumps on the road. I tried everything to correct this problem on both my Toyota Landcruiser ('74 FJ-55) and later on my '85 4Runner, but nothing seemed to help until I installed polyurethane body mount bushings. It seems counter intuitive, that putting on a stiffer, less compressible bushing material would actually reduce this vibration, but that's what seems to happen. I think the vibration is actually caused by the relative motion allowed by the softer rubber. In technical terms, the resonant frequency is proportional to the stiffness of the compliant member. The rubber is soft and very compliant, leading transmission of the low frequency shudder, that is within the frequency range of bumps transmitted up from the road. The stiffer polyurethane (approx. 92A durometer), shifts the resonant frequency up to a higher value, which is effectively absorbed by the suspension of the vehicle.
All this leads to the point that if you are going to the trouble of installing a body lift, why not also put in some new polyurethane bushings, too. They will make a dramatic improvement in the ride quality of your vehicle if your old rubber bushings are damaged or worn out. If done in conjunction with a body lift installation, there is minimal extra work required. If you don't change out the stock bushings, the added leverage of the lift blocks may contribute to a worsened ride quality. A couple of polyurethane bushing manufacturers are:
4Crawler Offroad carries both of these brands for various applications. Typically, body mount bushing kits often include no instructions and even if they do, make no mention of body lift blocks. See the schematic diagram, below, for a simplified cross section of a properly installed body lift and bushing together. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured) or one-piece:
XX New longer bolt ---- Factory Washer, either tabbed or round ~===========~ Floor of the cab or bed +----+ | | Body Lift Block, if applicable | | +----+ -------- New washer (if supplied w/ poly bushing kit) +------+ | | Larger poly bushing (Body or cab only) +------+ ========== Bracket off of the frame +----+ | | Smaller poly bushing (Body or cab only) \--/ ---- Factory or HD washer XX New lock nut If re-using the stock body mount bushings, the picture is a little different:
XX New longer bolt ---- Factory Washer, either tabbed or round ~===========~ Floor of the cab or bed +----+ | | Body Lift Block | | +----+ -------- Factory top washer (may be bonded to body mount bushing) +------+ | | Upper factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only) +------+ ========== Bracket off of the frame +----+ | | Lower factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only) \--/ -------- Bottom factory washer(may be bonded to body mount bushing) XX New lock nut
There is a metal bushing that goes inside the poly bushings, it gets sandwiched between the two washers outside the poly bushings and keeps them from getting compressed too much. When you tighten down the bolts, you bottom out this internal bushing. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured below) or one-piece. You can think of the body mount bushing like an Oreo-type cookie. The top and bottom washers are like the cookie wafers and the rubber part is like the creme filling. Without the sleeve in between the washers, the filling (i.e. rubber bushing) would squeeze out when you tightened the body mount bolt. Since the body lift blocks are not compressible, they do not need a sleeve or top/bottom washers to work. Rather they just get clamped in between the top washer of the body mount bushing and the floor of the cab/body. The clamping force of the body mount holds the block in place.
The following image is an excellent rendering of a typical body mount, courtesy of John Evaskovich:
One concern with body lift blocks is possible electrolytic corrosion due to dissimilar metals touching. This can be a problem with aluminum blocks and the steel of the body. If you wish, you could apply a heavy paint or spray-on undercoating to the top of the blocks. Anotehr option would be to cut out some plastic washers from an old plastic milk jug and use that to separate the aluminum and steel if desired to prevent possible electrolytic action. The big advantage of the UHMW polyethylene body lift blocks is that they eliminate this possible problem, as polyethylene is inert and self-lubricating, so you won't even have problems with the paint wearing off the steel and causing rust as is common with extruded fiberglass blocks.
[Return to the top of this page]What exactly is in a body lift kit?
What is listed below is information on all the vehicles we have sufficient information to construct a body lift kit or components for. If what you need is not listed below that means we do not have sufficient information required to design and build that component or vehicle kit. If you would like us to design any not-listed components or kits, see this section of the web page for the required information. Almost every kit listed below has been designed from information supplied by customers just like you.
All our body lift kits are proudly designed and manufactured in the USA
Below are some examples about what kind of options are available:
Aluminum Lift Blocks | UHMW-PE Lift Blocks |
Toyota 4Runner Kit | Toyota Pickup Kit |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser | Kia Sportage |
Pickup/Tacoma Bed Spacers | Steering Shaft Extension |
One thing about many of the commercially available body lift kits is that they are an all-in-one package, one size fits all:
So, 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to supply a body lift in an "ala carte" form, e.g. you want blocks, you order the blocks; you want bolts, you order the bolts, etc. Here is a list of some common combinations of parts that are typically ordered.
[Return to the top of this page]Check out this photo album for more details on our polyurethane body mounts. Click on any of the image thumbnails to see a larger photo plus information.
While not required, it is a good idea to check the condition of the stock rubber body mount bushings and if cracked or worn out, change them to polyurethane (PU). PU will withstand the added strain of the taller body lift, and it actually transmits less noise and vibration from the frame to the body than rubber.
If planning to install a body lift kit on your vehicle, it is a good idea to inspect your original body mount bushings to see what condition then are in. Look for any deep cracking or tears in the rubber bushings. And with the one piece bushings, look for separation of the rubber from the surrounding steel bracket or places where the bushings have collapsed and are allowing the body to rest directly on the frame bracket (usually you'll hear squeaking or rattling noises if this happens). If you have any doubt about the condition of the original rubber body mount bushings, there is no better time than when installing a body lift to swap out those bushings, since you can easily swap out the bushings prior to putting in the body lift blocks.
Speaking of squeaking, there's a common misconception that poly urethane body mount bushings are prone to squeaking. While it is true that poly urethane suspension bushings are prone to squeaking, realize the squeaking happens when there's something moving against the poly bushing. Imagine a spring shackle or control arm bushing as the suspension cycles up and down. The bushing will be rotating against whatever is touching it and that's where the squeaking comes from. Common solutions are to apply lubricant to the poly or use a black, graphite loaded urethane material. On the other hand, a poly body mount bushing is a different application. The body sits on the bushing and the bushing captures the body mount bracket and all that is held together with a bolt. For squeaks to happen, something has to move across the poly bushing. If your body is sliding around atop those bushings, something is seriously wrong, i.e. body mount bolts are loose or missing. If that is the case, fix the problem and the squeaks should go away. Long story short, no need for additional lubrication with poly body mount bushigs.
Especially on the newer model full bodied vehicles, the trend is the the mfg. to install taller, softer rubber bushings for a quieter ride on the road. However, in off-road use, those large squishy factory bushings can allow excessive body movement relative to the frame. If you have aftermarket bumpers, rock sliders or other trail protection (like a roll cage) install, the body may move enough to make contact with that trail armor and cause noise. Also, those soft rubber bushings are more prone to tearing when subjected to the extreme stresses of off-road driving. In these cases, the firmer polyurethane bushings are a good upgrade.
What makes the bushing kits offered by 4Crawler Offroad different than those from other companies?
Note that PU body mount bushings will likely look different than the OEM rubber bushings. There are several reasons for this, mostly to do with the different materials and molding operations. Rubber tends to be "squishier" than PU. As such, bushings are often designed to compress to a greater degree when made of rubber. So they will appear taller when uncompressed. Also, OEM rubber bushings are often molded with washers, sleeves and other metal parts bonded together inside in complex clamshell molds. This is how rubber has to be molded, it's put in a mold and then put under heat and pressure to allow the vulcanization process to occur. PU, on the other hand, is poured into an open mold as a liquid then heated in an oven to cure the polymer. PU molds have to allow for the cured part to be removed and thus they can't have the intricate ribbing and details like the rubber bushings. Case in point, look at the tire on your truck and compare that to a PU skateboard wheel. Also, with PU, the exact mechanical properties, like durometer, can be easily controlled by the polymer ingredients. With a rubber bushing, you have less control over the material properties and instead rely on the bushing shape to produce the desired bushing properties. That's why the rubber bushings often have complex ribbing and narrower/thicker sections to allow for the desired compression characteristics.
Polyurethane body mount kits are offered in the following configurations. Can be used as-is or with a body lift. Polyurethane is 92A durometer. On all our bushing kits, we hand-assemble each kit to ensure no missing components, unlike with the off-the-shelf kits where missing parts are common. Likewise, if you need just 1 or 2 bushings, we can supply that for most or our kits. Click the link for each main vehicle type to go to that particular page for detailed options and ordering:
US Delivery | Canada Delivery | Int'l Delivery |
Bed isolation washer |
Bed isolation washer |
Bed isolation washer |
Note: Bushing kit prices typically discounted with body lift kit purchase.
Pictured above:
If you have a vehicle not listed above, that uses 2-piece rubber body mounts, and would like to see about upgrading to poly urethane, contact 4Crawler Offroad and we'll be happy to work with you to develop a solution if possible. You'll need to supply detailed dimensions of the existing bushings, inner and outer diameters, height of upper and lower halves. Basically we will need the type of information listed in the prior section regarding the bushing dimensions. For mounts that bolt onto frame brackets, we'll need to know how the mounts attach to the frame, how many bolts, what size and spacing, etc. And you can browse the available bushing kits and sizes listed above to see if there is something that is close. We can change diameters and heights of the various bushings listed above to fit other vehicles. But don't despair, almost all the bushing kits listed above were developed by 4Crawler Offroad based upon customer input just like requested.
[Return to the top of this page]
Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 (and some 1997) Toyota 4Runner, are missing the B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount locations available for the most support. On other vehicles, the origial body mount brackets may be damaged by rust or you may need to install new brackets such as when converting a pickup from one cab style to another, such as a regular to extra cab.
Below is a picture of our new universal body mount bracket options. Our new brackets will work with frame to body/cab mount bolt spacing of 2-1/2" up to 3-1/2" (63mm - 88mm) or even wider. This includes Toyota pickup/Hilux cab mount brackets 1979-1995, Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf body mount brackets 1984-2002, Toyota Tacoma cab mount brackets 1995.5-2004 and T100 pickups. We sized these brackets to fit the majority of the Toyota models we had information for.
Also will fit a wide variety of other pickup and SUV models like Ford, Chevy, Dodge, GMC, etc. as is or with some monor modification. Measure the distance horizontally from the face of the frame to the center the body or cab mount bolt for sizing. The brackets feature a long slotted hole to allow the bushing to move in or out to align with the body or cab mount bolt for a perfect fit, eliminating the need for precise measurements. Just get within +/- 1/2" (12.5mm) and that's all you need.
The information following is not meant to be confusing and we did not try to come up with dozens of options just because. Rather, we are trying to describe the various options that customer's have requested over the years. We are trying to be transparent on the pricing of these various options. This will allow you to decide if you might need a given option and if so, how much it will cost. If you have questions on a specific option or need something that is not covered below, let us know what you are having trouble with or need.
For deeper applications, a thicker plate can be welded to the back side of the bracket. For example adding a 1/2" plate to the back side will fit up to a 4" frame - bolt spacing, or you can add a 1/4" fishplate to the frame and 1/4" plate to the bracket for a 1/2" deeper bracket. With any of these size modifications, you won't need any precision cut material, just standard width steel flat bar available at most hardware stores will do. If you can handle this yourself, just order the weld-on bracket, with or without the polyurethane bushing. This was done for the GMC Sierra bracket that you can see in our photo album, link below
Also possible to weld on 1", 1.5" or 2" wide extensions to the back side of the bracket for even wider applications. See the YouTube video below for a Dodge Durango bracket where 2" wide flat bar was added to the back side of the bracket and then a bolt-on plate added onto that to fit a 5" frame - cab mount distance: Likewise, we can also cut off a bit of the back side of the bracket to accomodate narrower frame to body mount bolt spacing. This material is readily available at most hardware / big box stores or on-line if you want to do this yourself. You need 3 straight pieces of steel of the desired width, cut to fit on the back side of the bracket. Tack those pieces to the bracket and then weld out the seams and you now have a wider or deeper bracket.
Likewise, if you needed a bracket that is 4" or 5" wide to fit a larger diameter bushing, the vertical sides could be cut off and a 1/2" or 1" wide flat bar welded in place on each side to widen the bracket accordingly.
They'll fit body mount bushings that have a 1" dia. raised center lip. They are available in a weld-on (left in image below) and a bolt-on (rght in image below) version. The bolt-on version comes with self-tapping screws for attaching the bracket to the frame. The bolt-on version will require a flat area of frame to mount to, so any old bracket would need to be completely removed. The weld-on bracket would only need clean, flat steel around the outside for welding. It can also be welded onto a wider bracket, such as under the A-pillar.
Body Mount Bracket Kit |
This kit can be used with or without a body lift. Brackets are available in single units, so order 2 if you want one for each side of the frame. Also available with our round polyurethane bushings. If you are replacing a bracket with bushings that bolt in place, you'll need to order the version with new bushings. We have bushings available in a 45mm, 62mm and 70mm diameter. The bushings come with the top and bottom cushions, a steel sleeve and a steel top washer. Also available is a heavy duty bottom washer (1/8" thick x 2" diameter) if you want to replace the original bottom washer from your old body mount bushing. Bushings can accomodate up to 1/2" diameter bolts. They come set up with 3/8" dia. holes in the washers and you can drill these larger if needed.
Pricing:
For bolt-on installation, you'll need to grind the frame flat over about a 3" x 3" square area and have sufficient frame wall thickness (at least 1/8" or 3mm) for the self-tapping bolts. One option with the bolt-on bracket is you can do the grinding and bolting of the bracket to the frame with simple home tools. Then you could drive to a welding shop and have them run a bead around the bracket to permanently attach it to the frame. This would save a lot of the installation cost that a shop would charge for the full install.
The weld-on bracket only requires clearing the frame in the area where you'll be welding the bracket to. It also works well if you find you need to fish plate the frame rail to repair rust-thinned metal there. Do that then weld the bracket in place. The weld-on bracket is also good if you need to customize it by adding additonal material to space it out from the frame.
Contact us for custom applications and shipping details. Please provide the frame to body mount bolt distance if enquiring about a bolt-on bracket: sales@4Crawler.com
[Return to the top of this page]Most (if not all) commercial body lift kits we've looked at use a "one size fits all" approach. You get one diameter of lift block (usually 2" OD) and that is to be used in all body mount locations. If you are a bit confused about the difference between the Standard and Ultimate body lift blocks, below are various combinations (of lift blocks - white UHMW or aluminum) installed on actual Toyota body mount bushings (the black rubber things) so you can see the differences:
A. 2-piece body mounts | B. Ultimate Lift Blocks |
C. Aluminum vs. UHMW | D. Aluminum Lift Blocks |
E. 1-piece body mount '89+ pickup/Tacoma w/ the various lift blocks |
F. 2" aluminum block |
G. 2" UHMW block | H. 2-1/2" UHMW block |
While a few eighths of an inch doesn't sound like a big deal, the difference in area is dramatic, the 2" UHMW block has nearly 27% more surface area than an actual 2" block and the 2-1/2" UHMW block has nearly 80% more surface area. Surface area equates directly to pressure on the floor of the cab/body of the vehicle. Many aftermarket body lift kits only supply 2" dia. blocks which are probably sufficient for on-road and mild off-road use, but for extreme off-road service, you need all the surface area you can get, or something like this can happen (image I below):
I: Problem with too-small lift block | J: Larger Diameter Block |
So if larger blocks are better, why stop at 2.5"? A few reasons not to use larger blocks:
On some vehicles, we do offer a Mega lift block option. The Mega blocks are typically 3" to 3.5" in diameter for those vehicles where the body mount bushings are that large and the owner wants to use a block that more closely matches the diameter of the bushing. Examples of vehicle with the Mega blocks are the later model FJ Cruisers, some 4th generation 4Runners and of course the Kia Sportage where we only offer that size.
Bottom Line: The Ultimate blocks simply are larger in diameter to more closely match size of the existing body mount bushings, the Mega blocks are even larger while the standard blocks are all the same (smaller) diameter.
[Return to the top of this page]The UHMW material comes in a natural white color, as shown in the section above. As a material, it is somewhat similar to Teflon in that it is very stain-resistant and most dyes and paints will not stick to the natural surface of the lift blocks. However, it is possible to sand the surface of the block, making it able to accept paint for those wishing a color other than white. This process is available at an additional cost and is currently available in flat black. Click here to see an image of a colored 1" tall block. This is specified by ordering the CLR option.
The default color is black, but if you wish to paint the blocks yourself, add the CLR option and specify unpainted and then you can apply your desired color paint. Likewise, you can sand the blocks yourself if you want to save money. Easiest way to do that is to stack up one or more blocks on a bolt with washers on each end and then secure them with a nut. Chuck the end of that bolt into a drill chuck and spin the block(s) against a piece of coarse sand paper until they have a dull finish, usually takes 30 seconds to a minute of sanding. Another option for a black block color is to apply a rubberized undercoating spray. That will stick to an unsanded or sanded block and will match the underside of the vehicle.
If the block coloring is slightly scratched during shipment or installation, it is easy to touch up with a flat black spray paint. The coloring process also affords UV light protection for blocks that may be exposed to direct sunlight.
Generally, however, the body lift blocks are not visible or exposed to direct sunlight. But you can make that decision for yourself, examine your vehicle and look for the body mount brackets and bushings and decide if you'll be able to see the lift block sitting on top of that bushing.
NEW: By popular demand, we now have a limited supply of solid black UHMW material in the 2" and 2.5" diameters. If we have this on-hand, we'll try to use it for your body lift blocks when ordered in the black color (CLR option).
Of course, the 1" tall aluminum blocks are natural aluminum color. You may paint, powder coat or anodize them to your color preference.
[back to the top]Mounting hardware is offered in both a standard and over size and also in standard and heavy duty grade (see bottom of this section for more information on the standard size, heavy duty grade hardware).
And of course, you can also supply your own hardware, if you want all metric or something even larger or heavy duty stainless steel, it is your choice. Just let us know what diameter bolts you plan on using so the blocks can be pre-drilled to fit.
And finally, why are the above hardware options "mutually exclusive"? That is why can't I order Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Metric hardware? Well, several reasons. If you look at the "universe" of bolts available, you can get most anything as long as you don't care what you are getting. But as you start narrowing down the bolt specifications, you'll find that "universe" rapidly collapses. Body lifts inherently need long bolts. Why? Well vehicle manufactures are using body mount bolts upwards of 6"/150mm long in stock form and by the nature of a body lift, the bolts have to be longer than stock, so up to 8"-9" long in some cases. Length is one factor that limits bolt availability as does size, since body mount bolts tend to be in the 3/8"-1/2" size. Then start tacking on things like Grade 5 or Grade 8 and the selection of bolts falls off, but ask for stainless steel or (at least in the US) metric, and your choices are very limited. And this is just using one choice or grade/size, but start combining them and you can just about write off any chance of finding an off-the-shelf bolt. And in fact you'll find that some some lift kit applications, certain options are only available up to a certain lift height or on certain vehicles. This is typically due to length issues, above a certain bolt length, that combination of bolt specifications is not economically available, so will be marked "n/a" (or Not Available).
Sure, you can get something custom made or from a specialty supplier, but the cost in small quantities is very high. For example, look at an engine head stud kit, they use high strength alloys (190,000 psi is common) but you are looking at $15-$20 per stud and nut for that hardware. Multiply that by 10-14 bolts needed for a body lift and you get the idea.
And while in certain cases, some combination of hardware options might be available, there is the cost of sourcing and stocking that rarely ordered hardware option in all the lengths and diameters needed, not to mention the space used to store that hardware is prohibitive for something that might only be ordered once every year or two. For example, we only ship a few kits a year w/ the stainless steel hardware and even less with metric hardware.
[back to the top]Manual transmissions and transfer cases have shift levers that are attached to the transmission (or transfer case) and extend up into the passenger compartment for access. Since the transmission or transfer case is attached to the frame, when the body is lifted, the shift lever "sinks" into the floor of the vehicle. With a 1" lift, this would probably not even be noticed. On a 2" - 3" lift, it probably is noticeable. The shifter(s) will still work like normal, given you address any clearance issues with the floor penetration/shifter boot(s). Most people have no issue with the lowered shift levers, you usually adjust to the change in a few days of driving. However, some folks find this situation bothersome. They are used to reaching out for the shifter and don't find it where it used to be, or they find they are missing shifts, etc. So, if you fall into the latter group, by all means, extend the shifter(s).
When deciding to extend the sifter(s), you can decide if you want to du just the transmission or the transfer case shifter(s) as well. All can typically be extended, but realize you will be using the transmission shifter many, many times each time you drive the truck, so extending this shifter gives the best "bang for the buck". The transfer case shifter(s) are typically not used that much, unless you take your truck off-road every day. And even if you do, how often do you find you are shifting the transfer case gears. So there is much less benefit to extending those shifter(s), but you can if you want to.
So bottom line is if having lowered shifters, due to a body lift, will bother you, by all means extend them. If it does not bother you, by all means leave them as-is. After all, there are no "shifter police" that will be pulling you over on the road to check the height of the shifters :)
We now offer a selection of thread sizes for different vehicles. Toyota mainly uses M12x1.25 (12mm dia. and 1.25mm extra fine thread pitch) up until the 2nd generation Tacoma pickups that seem to use M8x1.25, as does the Kia Sportage. M10x1.25 seemes to be used on the Mitibishi Montero/Pajero vehicles. Many European vehicles use M12x1.50 thread. US built vehicles commonly use 1/2"-20 (NF or fine thread).
Best to check which thread size you need by unscrewing the shifter knob and checking. You can use a bolt or nut of known diameter and thread pitch to check if you're uncomfortable measuring.
3" Extension (top) 2" Extension (bottom) |
Shifter Extension Installed |
Order Shift Lever Extension w/ US shipping |
========== |
Order Shift Lever Extension w/ Canada shipping |
========== |
Order Shift Lever Extension w/ Int'l shipping |
========== |
Order Shift Lever Extension add on to existing order |
For a weld-in extension, you'll have to remove the shifter from the vehicle and then cut the smaller diameter portion of the shift lever below where the boot sits. Then you'll need to line up and weld the extension in place. You can also use this opportunity to angle the shifter as needed to allow for full range of shifter motion with the body lift. You can find 1/2" or 12mm round bar as most hardware stores or just grab an old bolt of that diameter, cut the head and threads off and use that.
. | |
Weld-in Extension | . |
Order 2" Shift Lever Ext w/ US shipping | Order 3" Shift Lever Ext w/ US shipping |
Order 2" Shift Lever Ext w/ Int'l shipping | Order 3" Shift Lever Ext w/ Int'l shipping |
Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension add on to existing body lift kit order |
Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension add on to existing body lift kit order |
One issue that shift levers can cause with body lifts is that as the shifter "sinks" into the floor, the distance from the lever's pivot point to the floor penetration is increased. This means that the shift lever sweeps out a wider arc in the various gear selection positions. Enlarging the hole in the floor is one option or bending the base of the shift lever is another option. A simple extension, while it makes the shift lever longer, will not help alleviate the clearance issues at the shifter boot. A better option to both extend the shifter and to shorten its throw is a short shift kit. Here is a short throw kit that bolts onto the Toyota transfer case shifters.
A second issue that may crop up on manual transmission Toyota trucks is the flex hose for the hydraulic clutch where it drops down from the firewall to the clutch slave cylinder. In stock form, on the '84-'95 pickups and 4Runners, the flex hose is usually good for a 2" body lift, but at 3" it may be pulled a little too tight.
Pictured below (bottom to top) are the stock rubber clutch flex hose (approx. 10.5" long end-end) and a plain s/s flex hose and a s/s flex hose with polyolefin cladding over the s/s braid for added longevity. Both the s/s hoses are approx. 14" long, so 3.5" longer than stock to allow for more lift and flex between the engine/transmission and the body/frame.
The factory clutch hose seems to have 2 different ends, one with a slot in the hex and one with a slot on the round part for a retaining clip. For our s/s hoses, we can only get them in one style, that is with the clip slot in the round portion. Also, the slot for the clip is built to work with a variety of retention methods, so is wider than the slots in the OEM hose ends. You may need to adapt the OEM brackets and clips to work with the new hose ends. Re-using an OEM front brake hose will typically fit w/o modification.
Clutch Hose options |
Order a replacement s/s clutch hose below:
Bare s/s hose US Delivery |
Clad s/s hose US Delivery |
Bare s/s hose Int'l. Delivery |
Clad s/s hose Int'l. Delivery |
Bare s/s hose add on to existing body lift kit order |
Clad s/s hose add on to existing body lift kit order |
[back to the top]
Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to 3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before ordering and installing a body lift lit.
The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y" indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is not needed, although some linkage adjustments will typically be required:
Application | 1" Lift | 2" Lift | 3" Lift |
'79-'88 Toyota Pickup | N | Y | Y |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner | N | Y | Y |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup | N | Y | Y |
'96 and later Hilux, gas engines | N | Y | Y |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner | N | Y | Y |
'96 and later Hilux Surf, gas engines | N | Y | Y |
T-100 | N | Y | Y |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma (US) | N | N | N |
''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner (US) | N | N | N |
'03-'xx Toyota 4Runner | N | n/a | n/a |
FJ Cruiser | N | n/a | n/a |
'05-'xx Tacoma | N | N | n/a |
Tundra | N | N | N |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser | N | N | N |
Mitsubishi Montero | N | N | N |
A/T T-case Shift Lever Bracket | Bracket Install Location(s) | A/T Shifter Bracket & Linkage Extension Installed |
The bracket is fabricated from heavy gauge steel and includes new mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location (circled in red in the above-right image). The A/T linkage extension is a bolt-on extension for the upper shift linkage (circled in green in the above-right image) to prevent binding in the 2H position. Also available for customers who have another A/T shifter bracket, the A/T linkage extension is available separately (this is the square piece in the A/T bracket kit). The linkage extension is useful in those situations where you "run out" of adjustment in the stock shift linkage. The extension allows you to raise the shift linkage attachment point up to minimize the effect of the body lift. And on the 2WD pickups and 4Runners, this linkage bracket may be the only bracket you need since your truck lacks the transfer case shifter. Again this linkage extension is typically needed at a 3" lift and optional at 2" lift.
We have redesigned the A/T shifter kits so that all parts can be used on 2" and 3" lifts interchangeably. So while most folks typically only need the A/T shift lever bracket at 2", you can install the A/T linkage extension if you wish. Likewise, while most folks typically need both the bracket and linkage extension at 3", some only need the shift lever bracket, so you can now mix and match the parts as you wish. Consult the installation instructions for more details.
The A/T shift lever bracket is priced at $45 (typically for use on 2" lifts) or the full bracket plus linkage extension kit for $55 (typically for use on 3" lifts). If you have another brand body lift that does not include the A/T linkage brackets, this is the kit for you. A 2" or 3" lift is a 2" or 3" lift no matter what brand lift kit is used. Also you can use either the bracket or linkage extension on either a 2" or 3" lift.
Before ordering these bracket kits, see the important notes below:
Pricing:
A/T bracket only | A/T Linkage Extension only | A/T bracket Kit |
US Delivery | US Delivery | US Delivery |
~~~~~ | ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
Canada Delivery | Canada Delivery | Canada Delivery |
~~~~~ | ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
Int'l Delivery | Int'l Delivery | Int'l Delivery |
Notes:
A: Steering shaft disassembled | B: Steering shaft extended |
C: Recirc.Ball vs. Rack&Pinion | D: 4th Gen 4Runner/Tacoma |
Pictured above are a selection of our 1" (25mm) nominal spacers. We have taller versions up to 3" (75mm) nominal and they are the same design, differing only in height.
Many vehicles use a rubber "rag joint" in the steering shaft to help dampen out road vibrations in the steering wheel. It is used to joint two sections of the steering shaft via a round rubber disc. One section of shaft is attached to the rubber disc via a pair of studs. The other end of the shaft is attached via a pair of bolts or rivets. The attaching flange has two slots that fit around the studs. These slots allow the studs to move around as the rubber twists under load and vibration. Before the rubber can twist too far, the studs make contact with the side of the slots.
Our spacers are designed to fit over the studs with over sized holes allowing the studs freedom of movement. The spacer is bolted to the other side of the steering shaft. This way it extends the function of the slots. Another common type of steering extension has a male and female spline section joined in the middle. These can often have a sloppy fit, especially over time as they wear and are also prone to breakage at the thin joint between the male and female section. Our spacer, on the other hand, are a full 3" (75mm) in diameter of solid, billet T6061 aluminum. They rely on a pair of grade 8 bolts to clamp them securely to the rubber rag joint, just like the OEM shaft was originally. No fine splies to wear out, no finicky alignment of those splines, no thin, necked down section to fatigue and break.
Many vehicles use a similar style rag joint, including Toyota, Isuzu, etc. To check if your vehicle has a similar rag joint, the rubber disc is approx. 3" (75mm) in diameter and the holes are on a 2-1/8" (55mm) diameter bolt circle. Bolt size is 5/16" (8mm) and the slots for the studs are approx. 3/4" (19mm) across. The spacers are machined from billet 6061-T6 aluminum alloy for strength and come with a pair of longer bolts and lock nuts to replace the original bolts.
Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering typically use a nearly vertical steering shaft that runs from the steering column penetration of the firewall to the steering rack mounted on the frame. Since the shaft is vertical, it is directly affected by a body lift. There is some amount of adjustment at the lower clamp, sometimes and inch or more of excess shaft is inside the clamp. However, it is difficult to ascertain the amount of spline remaining inside the clamp without removing the steering shaft. At the base of the steering shaft is the "rag joint", that allows for slight misalignment and also helps to absorb jolts from the road. It is possible to slightly extend the length of the shaft with washers on top of the rag joint. Beyond about 1/2" and the stop bolts on the rag joint will slip past the slots on the steering shaft and this would leave the rag joint unsupported and subject to damage. Therefore, an extension of some is required. In the above images, you can see the rag joint disassembled and the extension that slips over the stop bolts and is then bolted in between the rag joint and steering shaft. Due to the angle of the steering shaft, the spacer can be a bit less than the amount of body lift, for example, for a 3" lift, the spacer is 2.5" tall. In our experienhce, it's much easier to pull the male spline out of the upper shaft clamp a little bit, if needed, then it is to push the male spline farther into the clamp. This is becuase the female splines farther up in the pinch clamp are often rusty or dirty and would require dissembline the clamp to clean out the splines. The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require extensions for the steering shaft. Note that "Y" indicates an extension is likely required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is likely not needed, although some adjustment of the steering shaft may be required (click here for details). On certain models, Toyota changed from the recirculating ball steering box to a rack and pinion type steering around 1995-6 time frame. The vehicles listed in Bold/Italic represent the rack and pinion type steering extensions, vs. the other vehicles that use the recirculating ball steering box. Easy to check which type of steering you have. The recirculating ball steering box will be attached to the outside of the frame, up in front of the front axle on the driver's side. The rack and pinion steering is located in the center of the vehicle, down low on the firewall behind the front axle. So be sure and check your vehicle to see which type of steering you have before ordering an extension.
Application | 1" Lift | 1.5" Lift | 2" Lift | 3" Lift |
'79-'88 Toyota Pickup / Hilux | N | N | N* | N* |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 1st gen | N | N | N* | N* |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup / Hilux | N | N | N* | Y/1" |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 2nd gen | N | N | N* | Y/1" |
'96 and later Hilux / Hilux Surf | N | N | N* | Y/1" |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma | Y/1" | Y/1.5" | Y/2" | Y/3" |
'05-'xx Toyota Tacoma | N* | Y | Y* | n/a |
'96-'02 Toyota 4Runner - 3rd gen | Y/1" | Y/1.5" | Y/2" | Y/3" |
'03-'xx Toyota 4Runner - 4th gen | N* | Y | Y | n/a |
FJ Cruiser | N* | Y | n/a | n/a |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser | N | N | N | N |
Toyota FJ80, Lexus LX-450 | N | N | N* | Y |
Tundra/Sequoia | Y** | Y** | Y** | n/a |
Mitsubishi Montero | N | N | N | N |
Isuzu Rodeo | N | N | Y* | Y* |
The 1" lift rack&pinion extension (pictured right in image "C" above) is priced at $30.00 for use with existing body lifts. Extensions for 1.5", 2" and 3" lifts are available for use on existing body lifts as well. On Tacoma 4WD pickups with 4" ProComp lifts, steering extension beyond 5/8" tall may not clear the steering rack drop bracket.
Use the convenient on-line ordering buttons below to order stand-alone steering shaft extensions for use with your existing body lift: (if ordering with a 4Crawler body lift kit, do not order below, contact 4Crawler Offroad for a kit discount). A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address. Order the steering extension designed for the type of steering:
US Delivery |
~~~~~ |
Canada Delivery |
~~~~ |
Int'l Delivery |
Extensions over ~2.5" tall will not fit un-lifted rack&pinion vehicles due to rag joint / frame interference, but this is tall enough for a 3" body lift, due to the angle of the steering shaft. These extensions can also be combined with upper spline extensions used in other lift kits, such as what PA supplies, or it can be used to replace the problematic and breakage-prone spline extensions. Also note that on Tacoma Pickups with Edelbrock headers, you may be restricted to about a 1" tall spacer, due to header/rag joint clearance issues.
1" spacer shown, 1.5" and 2" look similar, only taller
For recirculating ball steering (pictured left in image "C" above), generally the steering shaft is extendable (and collapsible for crash safety). But if you can't extend the shaft, a similar bolt-in rag joint spacer is available. Since the steering shaft is at an angle, you usually only need extensions over 2" of lift and then only at 1/2 the amount of lift. For example a 1" spacer (3/4" actual height) should be enough for a 2"-3"lift or when moving the steering box forward, as with a Solid Axle Swap (SAS). Due to the extra machining for this type of rag joint, the 1" spacer runs $40.00 for use on existing body lifts, or $35.00 when purchased as part of a 4Crawler body lift kit. This type of spacer can be used on 2"-3" lifted Toyota 4x4 pickups and 4Runners from 1995 and earlier and T-100 pickups. Note that it is not required as it is usually easy to extend the stock steering shaft. Also, be sure to specify whether you need the rag joint clearance slot/pockets (see picture "C") in line with the large or the small holes. Note that the extension may have either two pockets or one slot machined for clearance, either one will work fine. The large holes fit over the studs in the rag joint, the small holes are for the bolts that hold it together. The slots provide clearance for the tabs the encase the rag joint rubber and allow the spacer to sit flush to the rag joint. The 2" and 3" spacer can be used for applications where the stock steering box has been relocated farther forward on the frame or where the existing steering shaft is not long enough with the 1" spacer, an example application shown in this link. Also available a 1.5" spacer for those in-between situations.
US Delivery |
~~~~~ |
Canada Delivery |
~~~~~ |
Int'l Delivery |
A steering shaft extension is also available for the 4th generation Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser and some 2005+ Tacoma models with bolted rag joint steering shafts (and it is such a good design that other lift kit manufacturers. have stolen our design for use in their own kits!). These spacers aslo work on the Isuzu Rodeo and similar vehicles with a ~3" dia. rubber rag joint.
On the later model Tacoma pickups (2005 and later), some steering rag joints are bolts and some are riveted or have pressed in studs. If you have a riveted rag joint, you'll need to be able to remove that steering shaft in order to drill or press out the rivets/studs before you can install the steering shaft spacer and also order a special version of the spacer what is drilled out larger in the center to clear the riveted rag joint - the special version adds $15.00/spacer to the cost of those below. Contact us for details. So be sure you ascertain what setup you have prior to ordering.
Extension bolts on to the rubber rag joint in the driver's side foot well. It features a drilled out center hole (3/4" - 19mm nominal) to fit over the steering shaft and through holes to allow the existing bolts to fit inside.
-- 1" -- 1.5" -- 2" --
1" Steering Extension | 1.5" Steering Extension | 2" Steering Extension |
US Delivery | US Delivery | US Delivery |
~~~~~ | ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
Canada Delivery | Canada Delivery | Canada Delivery |
~~~~~ | ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
Int'l Delivery | Int'l Delivery | Int.l Delivery |
Postage and applicable sales tax is added automatically with the ordering buttons above for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address. Both type of extensions come with mounting hardware to install on your steering shaft. T. Contact 4Crawler Offroad if interested in purchasing a separate steering extension for your body lift kit, or order above. See the installation instructions for more information.
Typical Front Bumper Brackets |
Body lifts often require bumper brackets to raise the bumpers to match the height that the body was lifted. Pictured above are some typical front bumper bracket kits, showing 3", 2" and 1" brackets for a typical vehicle. These brackets are designed to raise the stock front bumper to match the body lift, since the typical front bumper attaches to both the frame and body. These brackets may also work with aftermarket front bumpers that attach with the stock front bumper mounting holes (typically 2 bolts on each side or in front of the frame - depending on vehicle). The table below lists available front bumper brackets:
Application | 1"-3" Lift |
'84-'88 Toyota Pickup | Yes |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner | Yes |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup | Yes |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner | Yes |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma | Yes |
'96-'00 Toyota 4Runner | Yes |
'01-'02 Toyota 4Runner | See instructions |
'03-'06 Toyota 4Runner | N/A |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser | N/A |
Mitsubishi Montero | N/A |
If your vehicle is one of the types listed above marked "Yes", then you can order a bumper bracket below. State the year and type of vehicle and the lift height desired in the "Note" field of the order form:
US Delivery |
~~~~~ |
Canada Delivery |
~~~~~ |
Int'l Delivery |
Ships in USPS Priority Mail Envelope. If you do not see your bumper application listed above, feel free to contact 4Crawler Offroad to see about availability. For a new bracket to be designed, you'll be required to furnish pertinent dimensions of your existing brackets, such as bolt hole size and spacing. And feel free to consult the installation instructions to see how the brackets are installed and also see the section on modifying aftermarket bumper brackets for use with body lifts.
The radiator may need to be relocated with a body lift. This is often the case since the radiator mounts to the body and the engine (and cooling fan) are attached to the frame. Lifting the body offsets the two leading to possible fan/shroud interference or reduced cooling efficiency if the fan moves outside the shroud.
There are a few cases where nothing needs to be done with the radiator mounting. One case is where you have an electric fan attached to the radiator itself and as long as that setup is clear to move up with the body, no relocation may be needed. This will also depend on how the radiator hoses can handle the offset. In some cases, you may find at lifts of 2" or higher, the radiator hoses may become kinked and that might restrict coolant flow. So be sure to inspect both the upper and lower radiator hoses to see how they will respond to the offset caused by a body lift. Another case where the radiator may not need to be relocated is where there is "daylight" between the fan and shroud (or where the fan shroud has been removed). In this case, the radiator can be raised without causing interference with the fan, so as long as the hoses are "happy", no relocation is needed. And a variation of this case is where the lower half of the fan shroud is removable (or has been removed), then the fan has clearance below the shroud and the body lift will cause no interference.
That said, there are some advantages to relocating the radiator back in line with the engine mounted fan, assuming that fan has not been replaced with an electric fan. That is that the fan and shroud are an important part of the cooling system, especially when stopped or when driving at slow speeds, like when going off-road. The shroud and fan work together to maximize air flow through the radiator when the fan is the only source of air flow (note that when driving at speeds of 20MPH or more, the natural air flow from the vehicle's motion is usually sufficient to cool the engine). But we have seen some studies some time ago in one of the off-roading magazines where they tested all sorts of radiator/fan/shroud setups for cooling efficiency and the variation was only in the 5% range from no shroud to a properly fitting shroud. But, if you live in a hot climate and tow a boat up into the mountains with the A/C running, you may need every percent of cooling efficiency you can get. While if you live in a cooler climate, it may make no difference. Like we tell folks, there are no "radiator police" out there that will pull you over to measure your radiator height and write you up if it is not perfect.
The drop brackets pictured below may be used on most vehicles that use 4 screws to hold the radiator in place on the front core support. The upper set of brackets feature a 5/16" threaded stud and 3/8" holes spaced at 1" intervals (on the 2" and taller brackets) to allow the radiator to be lowered to match the body lift height.
A: 1" Drop Brackets | B: 2" Drop Brackets | C: 3" Drop Brackets | D: Deluxe h/w kit |
Standard bracket kits shown above (A-C), also available are 1.25" and 1.5". The deluxe kits include 4 - M8 button head screws (D) for later model Toyota vehicles like the Tacoma pickup, 3rd, 4th and 5th generation 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra and Sequoia models, Lexus LX-450/60/70 models. These screws allow the brackets to be mounted to the threaded holes in the radiator flange and then the stud on the bracket can be inserted into the hole in the core support and fastened with the supplied lock nut. Customers have also used these to relocate other brackets and things like wheel well liners, so they're not just for radiators.
US Delivery | Canada Delivery | Int'l Delivery |
Standard radiator drop brackets |
Standard radiator drop brackets |
Standard radiator drop brackets |
Deluxe radiator drop brackets |
Deluxe radiator drop brackets |
Deluxe radiator drop brackets |
If you have the standard radiator brackets that need the additional hardware from the deluxe kit (photo D above), you can order just that below. This is a set of 4 M8 button head screws that allow you to attach the radiator bracket to the threaded holes in the radiator flange.
US Delivery | Canada Delivery | Int'l Delivery |
Dlx. radiator h/w |
Dlx. radiator h/w |
Dlx. radiator h/w |
On many pickup models, the bed (or tray) if directly bolted to the frame via brackets at several locations. In other locations, usually near the front and rear of the bed. Often, around the rear wheel well, there will be one or more locations where a channel under the bed comes close to a part of the frame, usually with a small air gap. These locations serve like an overload leaf on a spring pack. If the bed were to be heavily loaded with bulk cargo, it might start to sag in the middle. If this happens, the bed will make contact with the frame at these contact points and prevent if from sagging further. Examples of such bulk cargo might be sand, gravel, loose bricks, rocks, or firewood, for example. This type of cargo is not self-supporting and might cause the bed to sag. Examples of self-supporting cargo might be milled lumber, dirt bike or ATV, etc. This sort of cargo has the weight more at the front and rear of the bed or spread out over the full length of the bed.
When a body lift is installed, the cab and bed are raised up off the frame. As such, the bed can no longer make contact with the frame if overloaded. This is where bed spacers come in. They can be used to raise the contact point on the frame up close to the underside of the bed like it was before the lift. These spacers can also be used on full bodied vehicles such as 4Runner models where there's a rubber stop under the bed in close contact to the frame.
For an inexpensive spacer, consider cutting some scraps of pressure treated wood to the height of the lift and the width of the frame. Use some construction adhesive to attach that wood to the frame.
Or if you want a ready to install spacer, see below for our bolt-on or weld-on spacers, available in 1", 1.5", 2" and 3" heights to match most common body lift heights. These spacers are made of steel and have a mounting tab for use with a supplied self-tapping screws or they can be welded to the frame if you prefer.
Part Number Price (US)
BedSpcr1.0 $10.00/pr. 1.0 inch or 25mm
BedSpcr1.5 $12.50/pr. 1.5 inch or 38mm
BedSpcr2.0 $12.50/pr. 2.0 inch or 51mm
BedSpcr3.0 $15.00/pr. 3.0 inch or 76mm
Ships in USPS First Class parcel or Priority Flat Rate envelope
1" bed spacer pictured, other heights look similar, just taller.
We originally started making body lift blocks out of 2 inch round aluminum and this was when we only offered 1 inch tall blocks. Later we bagan to get requests for larger diameter and taller lift blocks. That's when we began using Ultra-High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene (UHMW-PE). This may be something unfamiliar to many people. Polyethylene itself may be a familiar material, commonly used in milk jugs and other plastic packaging. This is typically a low molecular weight material. UHMW on the other hand is a polymer material with the toughness of a metal: composed of long polymer chains with a molecular weight of between 3 and 6 million. UHMW-PE combines the traditional abrasion resistance of metal alloys with the impact and corrosion resistance of synthetic materials.
The resistance to abrasion, impact and corrosion of UHMW-PE exceeds that of many conventional structural materials. It has a number of other valuable characteristics in applications requiring superior wear resistance and sound deadening. Its self-lubricating properties eliminate the need for oil and greases, making it suitable for use in the food industry where contamination from lubricants would pose problems. High abrasion resistance makes it ideal for liners, enabling light aluminum trucks and trailers to carry sharp or abrasive loads. In the manufacture of separators for lead-acid batteries, UHMW-PE meets this demanding application due to its excellent corrosion resistance.
UHMW-PE has a a tensile strength nearly twenty times greater than steel, this stuff is often used in bullet-proof vests and in the new synthetic winch cables. For example, consider the free breaking length (FBL), that is the length of a filament of material that could be suspended before it breaks. Note that the Karman Line, which is the proposed boundary between Earth's atmosphere and outer space is 100km and the height of the ISS is 330-400km:
Material | FBL (km) |
Aluminum | 12 |
Steel | 25 |
Glass Fiber | 125 |
Carbon Fiber | 195 |
Aramid Fiber (Kevlar) | 235 |
UHMW_PE fiber | 330 |
This is tough stuff, drop one of the blocks and you'd swear it was metal. It is a bear to cut, it took 4Crawler Offroad quite a bit of research and development to find a way to cut the bulk rod into useable blocks.
One last factor that makes UHMW-PE an ideal material for body lift blocks is that it is self-lubricating, i.e. it won't SQUEAK. With metal spacers or even the extruded fiberglass-type blocks, the constant rubbing action of the floor of the body and the blocks can lead to squeaking and on the fiberglass blocks, the friction can start to wear away the material. UHMW-PE is commonly used for bearing material in industrial applications. UHMW-PE has a wide temperature range as well, from below -100°F to +180°F and a melting point of over 280°F. Here is a link to more extensive physical properties of this material.
We do get a few customers that request the aluminum lift blocks. One application is for the FJ80 Landcruiser models where one body mount is located close to the exhaust. Some customer want the higher temperature properties of aluminum compared to UHMW-PE. However, realize that the aluminum lift block is sitting right on top of a rubber body mount bushing which has similar temperature ratings as UHNW-PE. We've had other customers who wanted to get the aluminum lift blocks anodized in a color to match their truck. One such case was a customer building a custom flat bed, where the frame and lift blocks would be exposed and they wanted a specific look.
Another possible body lift block material we've been asked about is polyurethane. After all, isn't polyurethane used in body mount bushings, so why not make the body lift blocks out of the same material? Body mount bushings are designed to allow a little flex between the frame and the body. They are generally 1"/25mm or less in height and are designed with a given amount of compliance to perform this function. However, add an inch or two or three of flexible polyurethane on top of those bushings and you'll find the body swaying from side to side as you drive down the road. You'll end up with way too much flex and that can lead to fatigue in the body mount bolts. Also, polyurethane is very hard to machine, that's why it's more commonly molded into a shape. Polyurethane casting molds are very expensive to make and you need specialized equipment to properly pour and cure the material. Unless one is making large quantities of the same part, it's cost prohibitive to make parts this way.
One minor drawback to UHMW is that if it is left exposed to sunlight, it can get some surface crazing due to the UV exposure. This typically takes a few years of exposure to show up and since most body mounts are hidden under the truck, this is normally not an issue (reflected light off the ground is usually not an issue). A simple coat of paint, undercoating or bed liner spray will block any UV that may hit the block if it is somehow exposed to direct sunlight through a gap in the body or bed. The crazing is only surface deep and will not affect the strength of the block. We have a test block that has been in direct sunlight for around 20 years now and it has crazing over the surface but only a few 0.01" down, the material is unaffected. The UHMW material is slightly translucent and upon exposure to UV, it turns an opaque white color and that limits the depth of penetration of the UV light to the very surface layer to it will not penetrate to the center of the block under normal conditions. You can also order the blocks pre-colored to avoid this issue as well...
If you would like a sample block, that can be sent to you one to evaluate for $4.96 (US - only) to cover the cost of postage and you'll receive a sample by US mail shortly:
[back to the top]
This kit will function for its intended use, that is it will lift the body of the vehicle off the frame by the specified amount, the bolts will fit in the blocks and the nuts will screw onto the threads of the bolts. Anything beyond that is totally out of our control. You must realize that this will raise your vehicle's center of gravity, making it less stable in turns and in off-camber situations. It can also increase leverage on body mounts, especially in cases of high speed impacts. This is simple physics and geometry.
Although this kit is made from the highest quality materials possible, it is not a substitute for safe and careful driving. In other words; good, safe on-road and off-road common sense. Know the terrain, vehicle and speed limitations, and obstacles that lay ahead. Please remember to preserve our right to enjoy public lands through the proper use of your off-road vehicle, Tread Lightly by all means.
After researching materials, equipment, and fabrication techniques, 4Crawler Offroad was formed to provide these products at a reasonable cost in order to be able to offer this solution to others who lacked the time, equipment, or expertise to do this themselves.
NOTES:
Its funny how the subject of a body lift can polarize a discussion into folks who absolutely hate them and folks who like them. I'll admit I've seen some rather bad examples of body lifted trucks as well as bad examples of suspension lifts including blocks, cut and welded steering components, foot long shackles, and other nightmares of questionable engineering. Some vehicle bodies sit very high on the frame (Nissan and Chevy pickups come to mind) others, like Toyota, seem to sit very low on the frame. In fact, at stock height, a 4Runner frame is barely visible under the body:
Stock <<<<<<< >>>>>>> 3" Body Lift
In the above photos, you can see my truck when it sat on the stock body mount bushings and 3 years later with a 3" body lift. I think there was more "stuff" hanging down below the body before than after. FYI: Both shots are taken with the same 33x9.50 tires. I do have nerf bars installed in the after shot that were not there in the before picture. I replaced the stock wheel well liners with Lift-Lips designed to cover the gap for a 3" body lift.
With the 3" lift:
Point is that a body lift can be done in a tasteful manner and can be a starting point for a whole lot of other vehicle improvements. A body lift is not a cure-all, either. But as part of a well integrated system it can be a very useful component. Lest you think the body lift is just for show, when I stuff a 33x15.50 Swamper TSL/SX tire up in those wheel wells, I'm happy for every inch of lift that I have:
Both front and rear tires are capable of getting stuffed several inches into the wheel wells. At one time, I measured only 5" from the front fender to the top of the rim, meaning I had about 4" of tire above the lip of the fender.
Folks will list many reasons why a body lift is a bad idea. Mostly those concerns seem to revolve around poor or incomplete installations.
So, if someone complains that a body lift messed up the shifter operation, this is another case of an incomplete installation. There are many solutions available to make shifter operation work as well, if not better than stock; including shifter extensions, short throw shift kits, drive train lifts, etc. Or they complain that there is a gap between the body and bumper. Simple fix is to install relocation brackets or modify the bumper to close the gap. And this has the side effect of increasing approach and/or departure angles on the vehicle, which is another aspect of a body lift many folks overlook when they say a body lift provides no increase in ground clearance. While it is true that the frame is not raised, if your front and/or rear bumpers hang down low, these can limit the size of obstacle you can get up on or off of, so there is more to "ground clearance" than the height of the frame or axle above the ground.
Another concern many people have about body lifts is the gap between the body and frame, most visible in the wheel wells. I run a set of Lift Lips on my 4Runner. They replace the stock plastic wheel well liners with a heavy rubber material and cover up to a 3" lift. Here's how I installed them on my truck. Not only do they fill the gap but they also help keep water and mud out of the engine compartment.
You can also obtain some material from a good hardware store and make your own. Use something like sheet rubber, pond liner, rubber roll roofing, sheet vinyl, etc. Remove the old wheel well liner and use it as a template for cutting the new liners. Draw a parallel line to the top, spaced down an amount equal to your lift. Then line the old liner up with the top of the sheet and trace the upper half. Then slide it down to the line you drew and trace the bottom half. Mark and punch out any mounting holes and you now have a copy of the liner that will cover the gap created by the body lift. Reattach it with the factory hardware. On vehicles where no liners exist from the factory, usually just a simple rectangular strip of material will suffice. Mark and drill some mounting holes and attach the liner to the lower lip of the wheel well.
As an alternative 4Crawler Offroad can supply the wheel well liner raw material. We offer oil resistant neoprene rubber sheets in 1/16" (1.5mm) thickness. Each sheet, typically enough for 1 - 2 wheel well liner(s), is sized 12" tall x 36" long (305mm x 914mm), cost is $20.00/sheet in plain rubber (GAP1) and a fiber reinforced neoprene rubber sheet that is $30.00/sheet (GAP2). The reinforced material is more resistant to tearing compared with the plain rubber and also comes in wider sheets, so 2 sheets will be 24" tall x 36" long (610mm x 914mm) which may be able to fit multiple liners into the wider sheet compared to the narrower sheet of plain rubber. Depending on the number of sheets ordered, additional shipping may apply. To include with a body lift kit order, contact us for total shipping cost.
There are a number of sources for custom fit "gap guards" for a variety of vehicles. Also check out DayStar and Rad Rubber Design.
To make a custom fit wheel well liner, remove the existing wheel well liner from the vehicle. Lay the top of the liner flush to the top of the material and trace the upper half. Also, mark all the hole locations for the mounting hardware. Then mark a few places where the bottom of the liner sits and then measure down an amount equal to the height of the body lift, for example 2", from those 2 points. Now slide the original wheel well liner down to those two new marks and trace the bottom half of the existing wheel well liner. Now use a pair of scissors to trim the top and bottom of the material to the lines you traced and punch holes for attaching the liner to the wheel wells. When making cuts, be sure to leave no sharp inside corners. Instead, try to leave about a 1"/25mm radius on all the corners to prevent tearing once the material is installed.
You may be able to cut two liners from one sheet, for example the rear wheel wells on a pickup or 4Runner as those liners are often just a straight piece. Likewise, you may be able to nest uneven shapes from two sides together to fit into one sheet.
Another option is to cut a strip of material a bit wider than the body lift height and afix that to either the top or bottom of the existing wheel well liner. You could use rubber cement, pop rivets or small bolts with nuts and washers to afix the two pieces of rubber together. Essentially, you're re-using the factory pieces and simply extending them for the height of the body lift in order to span the gap between the wheel well and the frame.
[back to the top]Since all our body lift kits are custom built to your exact needs, it is hard to make an easy order form. Feel free to contact 4Crawler Offroad with your vehicle specs (make, model, year) and your lift needs (tire size, clearance issues, etc.):
For the order buttons below, US shipping is added for the 2 left-most buttons, for the far right button, be sure to include shipping in the total Applicable sales tax will automatically be added with these 3 buttons.
We have chosen to make ordering a simple one-click process. Rather than having a shopping cart system where you may need to click on half a dozen "Add To Cart" and "Check Out" buttons to place your order, all you have to do is click on the one "Buy Now" button below and then enter a short description of what you want and how much those parts cost.
Purchase w/ uninsured US shipping - Adds US$16.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ insured
US shipping - Adds US$18.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ other shipping option - Add custom shipping cost to order total |
[Last updated: 20.September.2024 ]
Visitor # 932103 since 13.AUG.2001
The latest version of this document may be found at: //4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml