[Click here for pix of my former Caddy]

Contents:

Owner	Vehicle	Engine	.
Transmission	Suspension	Wheels, Tires and Brakes	Custom Features
Future Mods	VW/Diesel Tech.Info.	Cheap Tricks	Reader's Rides
Tales from the trails	Links to VW/Diesel Info.	For Sale Page	...

Some old NorCal Caddy Gatherings

Owner information:

• Roger Brown, P.E.
  • Located in: SF Bay Area, CA. USA
    • I used to drive a 1978 VW Rabbit C model; purchased new, German-built!
      • It had the 1.5 liter fuel injected 4 cylinder, with over-square pistons.
      • Installed a 4:2:1 tube exhaust header and Monza muffler.
      • ATS 13x6 rims with Phoenix 205 60HR 13 rubber - a very excellent tire!.
      • Spare tire gas tank gave 24 gallon fuel capacity for 700+ mile range.
      • Had front/rear sway bars, lowered front springs and KYB shocks.
    • Here's my other vehicle: Project: 4Crawler.
  • If you are curious about the above left picture, it was taken at Gilbert Pass on CA-Hwy 168, east of Big Pine, looking southwest across Deep Springs Valley (in the foreground), the Inyo Mtns. in the middle and the eastern Sierra Crest in the distance. The highest peak in the picture is probably Mt. Pinchot, 13,495 and is about 46 miles distant.

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Vehicle information:

• 1982 VW Pickup; A1 chassis
  • Also known as the "Caddy" in other parts of the world
    • Its a diesel so I don't have to deal with Smog Checks!
    • 261,165 on the clock when I bought it.
  • 292,000 miles (and counting)
    • My best one-day drive is 1044 miles from Eugene, OR - Seattle, WA - San Jose, CA in 18 hours!
  • Color: Mojave Beige, paint code: LE1N
    • Tan interior
  • 15 gallon fuel tank
    • Currently adding ~13oz. 2-stroke oil and ~3oz. Stanadyne Performance Formula per fill-up to help with the new low-sulphur diesel fuel out there.
    • Why that mix? Well, Stanadyne is formulated for the low sulphur diesel and it helps boost cetane rating and 2-stroke oil makes a low cost, low ash lubricant. Plus, it makes for easy no-measure mixing.
    • My "recipe" is to take a gallon of 2-stroke oil (cheaper that way) and I pour half into an empty gallon jug. Then I pour a 1 pint bottle of Stanadyne into each 1/2 full jug. So this nets me 5 pints of mix in each jug.
    • Then I simply fill a 1 pint bottle with the mix and add this all to each tank full of fuel when I fill up.
    • Have also been pouring in between 1/2 and 1 gallon of straight vegetable oil (SVO) in per tank.

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Engine:

• 1.9 liter, 4-cylinder naturaly-aspirated indirect-injection diesel
  • 79.5 mm bore x 95.5 mm stroke = 1896 cc
  • 22.5:1 compression ratio
  • 70 HP @ 4200 RPM
  • 100 lb.ft. @ 2400 RPM
  • Engine/tranny swap done by Randy Knoche at Little Village Automotive
  • New 1Y engine from Vege Motoren
    • Seems to share most parts with the AAZ engine (1.9TD).
    • Vege seems to be affiliated with ATK Engines here in the US
  • In the above left picture, you can see the valve cover breather setup I run, it consists of:
    • A vent fitting from a TDI engine
    • The old 1.6" valve cover vent hose attached between the fitting and air box
    • A new hose run from the block breather tube to the TDI fitting.
  • In the above right image, you can see the modifications needed to fit the 1.6L timing belt cover:
    • The forward edge was notched and bent out to clear the forward sprocket.
    • A tab and nut were welded to the injection pump bracket and a bolts was inserted to attach the front of the cover
    • The two stock bolts (not pictured) in the front and rear of the head fit fine.
  • Overland Parts can also supply new 1.9D/TD/TDI engines through their dealer network.
  • GEX International also carries the 1.9 engines and has some good technical specs on the engine, too.
• K&N Filtercharger
  • Extended fresh air pickup tube to pick up cold air from the grill
• Heavy duty 3-row radiator
  • Built using the brass/copper tanks off my old radiator along with a new Modine #663 3-row core
  • Built for me at a local radiator shop: //www.radiatorland.com/
  • Cost was approx. $220 (2002 price)
• Injector pump set to 1.03mm stroke and increased max.load fuel setting for the larger engine.
  • I had no change in fuel economy with the above injector pump mods, but a HUGE increase in torque and driveability.
  • ~37 MPG on the highway with my Caddy Shack at normal speeds, but I did get 44 MPG keeping the speeds under 60 on one trip.

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Transmission:

• VW-020 5 speed manual FN model
  • Since diesel engines have high torque and low RPM, a taller geared transaxle is a better option than the low geared transaxle VW used on these vehicles.
  • 0.71 : 1 5th gear
  • 3.67 : 1 final drive ratio (re-geared)
    • Filled with 2 liters of Redline MTL gear oil
      • Makes for nice smooth shifting, hot or cold
  • Quaife limited slip differential
    • So now instead of spinning one tire at the line, both tires spin!
  • 210mm flywheel, 16V pressure plate and 8V clutch
  • 90mm CV joints
• Missing LinkZ short throw and weighted shift linkage

Quaife Update:

I really like the Quaife "Automatic Torque Biasing" (a.k.a. limited slip) differential. It made such a huge difference. With a high torque diesel engine, coupled with a 3.89 final drive ratio, spinning the inside tire in a turn was inevitable. In the rain, invariable one tire would break loose and I'd sit there spinning. Now, you punch it and GO. You can hear the inside tire trying to break loose a little, but the outside tire is pulling. You do have to hold on to the steering wheel, it wants to straighten out. But unlike before, the harder you turn the wheel the more the vehicle wants to turn. Need to pull out onto a rain slick roadway, just hit the throttle. Both front tires will spin a little but then they grab and you are going.

You do feel a little bit of steering input from the throttle, accelerate and it goes into slight understeer, back off the throttle and its very slight oversteer. Not bad at all, I think the Quaife is a lot mellower than the TrueTrac limited slip I ran in my Toyota 4x4 for a few years and nowhere near as bad as an automatic lock differential in the same rig. I think this is mainly due to a lower torque biasing ratio on the Quaife. I was on a snow covered hill with rocks and had both tires on icy snow, but one tire was in a bit of a hole. I was unable to load up the brakes to get the other tire pulling. Had to get both tires fairly equally weighted to get going. Once on a more even surface, I had no traction problems with more snow and ice. I was pretty happy with the way it worked in snow.

I ended up blowing out the 3.89 gears and opted to have a local shop (Ron's Transaxle in San Pablo, CA) rebuild the transaxle. I picked up a used 3.67 gear set and sent it off to NW Cryogenics to be cryo-treated prior to installation. Ron's did a great job with the transaxle, replacing a few other internal worn parts and upgrading it to the later style end cab and double arm clutch setup.

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Suspension:

• Rear:
  • Stock leaf springs
    • w/ custom leaf spring pack
  • Custom Bilstein heavy duty monotube shocks
    • Makes a very nice complement to the front Bilsteins, much more supple than the stiffer KYBs I had in there before and much more stable at higher speeds.
  • Addco rear sway bar
• Front:
  • Heavy-duty coil springs, stock ride height
    • Purchased from JC Whitney
  • Bilstein HD 30mm strut inserts up front, replacing my worn KYBs
    • P/n: 34001730
    • Great shock, firm, but not harsh
    • Had one insert go bad, a phone call to Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) and I had a replacement insert in a couple of days, excellent warranty service!
  • Neuspeed upper strut tie bar and sway bar
  • Scirocco 4-point lower subframe
    • Basically a lower stress bar, ties into the lower control arm bolts and subframe
  • Polyurethane suspension and steering rack bushings.
    • The old rubber bushings were firmly attached to the moving wishbones.
    • The urethane parts move much more freely and are stiffer to boot.
    • The ride is improved, more precise and no sign of harshness.
    • I also tried polyurethane engine mounts, but decided they are NOT a good idea on a diesel :-)
  • New OEM strut bearings

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Wheels, Tires & Brakes:

• VW's "Sporty light alloy wheels" (5Jx13 aluminum)
  • Bought wheels used w/ nearly new tires for $250
    • Had to add the hub caps (at $6.25 each!).
    • A dot of super glue works to keep the caps attached to the wheel
• After wearing out the tires below, I put on a set of Kumho Solus in the same 185-70R13 size and have been quite happy with them so far.
  • They seem to have about the same cornering grip of the Yokos but better straight line grip. Can still break them loose of the line with ease, but not quite as easy as the Yokos :)
  • Yokohama 185-70R13 Avid Touring tires
  • These tires were nice, got 'em on sale for $38/ea. from Tirerack, 80,000 mile tire
• 9.4" vented disk brakes in front
  • Mintex "red" brake pads
  • Stainless steel front brake lines ready to install
    • M10x1.0 bubble flare brake line fittings
• Stock rear drum brakes
  • Stainless steel rear brake lines and rear discs awaiting installation

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Electrical:

• Optima 800U Red Top battery
  • Currently installed in the factory location, may ultimately relocate it to the bed.
• Stock? alternator
• Philips ColorClear blacked-out headlights with protective wire grill.
  • Gives a nice black-out effect when off, blends in with the black grill.
  • The internal black metal grill really cuts down on headlight glare.
  • It does seem to cut down on the light output slightly.
    • Then again, I was running Hellas before!
    • The Hellas now live on my 4Runner.
  • Unfortunately, Philips no longer makes the ColorClear headlights :(
  • An upgraded headlight wiring harness w/ dual relays
• AM/FM/Cassette/CB radio, Sound Barrier model 1040SD
  • 70 watt audio w/ removable face plate
• Awaiting install:
  • A really nifty manual radiator fan control and indicator light; see schematic.

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Custom Features:

A: B: C:

• '83 GTI front seats
• Scirocco 15" leather wrapped steering wheel (see: A)
• Audiovox cruise control
• Custom A2 center console w/ GPS and gauges (see: A)
• GTi tachometer w/ optical RPM pickup (see: A)
  • 120MPH speedometer (like I can really go that fast!)
• Autotech A-pillar fairings.
  • Replaced useless glue-on wing windows with new bolt-through units.
• Fiberglass front air dam w/ rubber skirt: (see: B)
  • Really helps keep the front end down on the ground.
  • I backed up the bottom of the dam w/ 1x6 redwood filling the area in between the dam and the front valence. It has hit the ground on a few occasions and has suffered no damage.
  • The bottom of the rubber skirt is covered with 1/2" polyethylene irrigation tubing (slit length-wise) to minimize abrasion.
    • About every 2 years, the tubing will wear through and need to be replaced.
• Hand-carved shift knob salvaged from my '78 Rabbit and '81 Caddy (see: C)
  • Carved it while working as a fire lookout during the summer of 1978
• And a custom-built Caddy Shack out back...

[Return to the top of this page]

---

Future Mods:

• Replace stock one tube exhaust manifold with dual tube and downpipe for taller 1.9D block
• Check the port-match on the intake manifold

[Return to the top of this page]

Tales from the Trails

One of the things I like about my pickup is that it makes a great rig for extended road trips:

• Getting around 40 MPG, it's economical to drive long distances
  • 14 gallon fuel tank gives it excellent range.
  • Being a pickup, it makes gravel and dirt road travel possible.
  • It can carry enough camping gear and supplies for a few weeks.
  • Room enough for one person to sleep in the back, with that gear.

  I've taken it on a few interesting trips over the years (mostly in my old '81)

  • June-August 1978 (in my then nearly new '78 Rabbit-C):
    • Pullman, WA. west to the Pacific Coast, south to the Mexico border, east to Texas, north to Wyoming, east to NYC where I dropped my college buddy off to return home to Denmark, then west back to Pullman, WA and finally south to the SF Bay area in CA.
    • Total miles ~18,500 and about 7 weeks of driving.
  • July 1992:
    • Bay Area (CA). to northern Idaho and my cousin's wedding.
      • My ailing head gasket decided to go on the way there.
      • Spent a day in Lewiston, ID. helping a mechanic drop a new head and gasket on.
    • Then, new head and all, headed (no pun intended) off to British Columbia and Hyder Alaska:
      • Hyder is the southernmost part of Alaska that you can drive to, just west of Stewart, BC.
      • Hyder must have the cheapest fuel in North America, think I paid US $0.75 per gallon for diesel!
      • It is US territory, but only deals in Canadian $, and (I think) pays no taxes to either country from what I can tell.
    • On to the Cassiar Highway
      • 450 miles of dirt and gravel w/ *one* gas station.
      • I made it w/o stopping in one l-o-n-g day, gotta love that midnight sun.
    • Entered the Alaskan Highway at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory.
      • Milepost 446.
      • 1992 was the 50th anniversary of the opening of the highway.
    • Drove south/east to Dawson Creek (milepost 0) for a family reunion in Hythe.
    • Then south to Jasper and Banff National Parks.
      • Via the Forest Service road south of Grand Prairie.
      • 200 more miles of gravel.
    • And finally back to the Bay Area, about 7000 miles.
    • I'd highly recommend getting the latest issue of the Alaska Milepost.
  • July 1994:
    • Left Bay Area, passed through Nevada and Utah to Colorado Springs, CO.; to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison monument (the drive into (and out of) the canyon is wild, 1st gear down and up - 8000' elevation and *steep* grades); on through Crested Butte, CO. over the pass (dirt/gravel roads, ~10,000 ft.) to Glenwood, CO. and into Rocky Mountain NP (at 12,000 ft. elevation, engine has no power to get started, I had to park facing downhill so I could get a rolling start!); then through Denver, CO; Colorado Monument (highly recommended); on to Arches NP and Canyonlands NP; then flew through Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Zion parks on my way to Death Valley for a warm night (88°F at midnight); and finally home via Highway 120 through Yosemite NP.
  • August 1994:
    • SF Bay Area, CA to Great Basin NP in Nevada on Highway 50 (the loneliest highway in the world); to Fossil Butte monument where I was treated to a wonderful display of thunder and lightning; through Teton and Yellowstone parks; and on to Devil's Tower monument in Wyoming (where the devil got me; my left outer CV joint locked up. Luckily I was a few miles from a NAPA shop and the owner had a parted out Rabbit which donated a front axle); on to Pipestone monument in Minnesota and on to my grandad's house outside Lengby, MN.for his 80th birthday party. The return trip went by way of Sturgis and Deadwood, SD just in time for the big Sturgis Harley rally (not only did I have twice as many wheels as the rest of the folks there, but about 1/2 the horses!); then a straight shot down I-80 back home.
  • May 1995:
    • SF Bay Area, CA. to Eureka Sand Dunes (recently added to Death Vally NP); then over the Last Chance Mtns. to Crankshaft Junction and Death Valley proper; down the West Side Road, the mercury topped out at +46°C; back through Badwater; then up to past the Charcoal ovens to Mahogany Flat (the 4x4 road at 8300 feet nearly stopped me, but not quite!) to climb Telescope Peak. Continuing on to Darwin Falls for a refreshing dip, for the long drive up 395 to Reno, NV; past Pyramid Lake the dreaded "Pavement Ends" sign appears; the road condition deteriorates until just a muddy pair of ruts remain through a deserted homestead; finally improving before reaching pavement again. In the far northeastern corner of California and on into the NW corner of Nevada and southern edge of Oregon is some remote country with narrow paved turning to gravel turning to rough dirt roads respectively (by state). After several weeks of rain, the dirt track was now a genuine mud bog. Confronted with hundred yard stretches of goo (and not wanting to dig myself out) I would crank it up to ~50MPH and skim over the wet stuff like those mud boggers you see on TV.
      • BTW: This was to be the final trip on my tires, they were quite bald at this time.
      • They were Semperit 155R13s and they had to be the slipperiest tires I've ever driven, boy did they squeal around corners!
    • I continued on up through central Oregon and an incredible cloud burst that did a good job of cleaning off the accumulated mud, into central Washington to Lake Chelan to celebrate my parent's 40th wedding anniversary. Returned home via I-5 with a stop at Crater Lake, where the mercury hit -4°C in the morning (for the trip, a 50°C variation).

[Return to the top of this page]

Before:

Ouch:

After a full-size Chevy pickup rammed me while I was stopped at a red light, pushing me into the car in front of me. The jerk driving the pickup was obviously not paying attention. My pickup is still driveable, but I traded it in on a recently rebuilt '82 model w/ 1.9L n/a engine:

[Return to the top of this page]

===>>

Visitor # 203994 since 08.AUG.2001

[Last updated: 26.April.2024 ]