Custom Body Lift Kits

Contents:

• Introduction
  • Note on e-mail replies
• Lifts in General
  • Frequently Asked Questions (and answers, too!) <<< Please read this section
    • If you are looking for a new body lift kit design <<< Please read this answer
    • And if you are looking for an "RB" body lift kit <<< Please read this answer
• Body Mount Tech
• Body Lift Kit - options
  • Vehicle Applications and pricing
  • Standard vs. Ultimate blocks, what's that all about?
    • What color are the blocks?
  • Standard vs. Heavy Duty hardware, what's that all about?
  • What about manual transmissions and transfer case shifters?
  • What about automatic transmissions?
  • What about steering?
    • Now available: Steering extensions for 4th generation 4Runners
  • What about bumpers?
  • What about radiators?
  • Polyurethane Body Mount Bushings
  • Body Mount Brackets
  • What about wheel well liners or Gap Guards?
• Materials
• Disclaimer
  • Aesthetics
• Place an Order
  • Payment Options
• Installation instructions

Introduction:

So, why in the world did 4Crawler Offroad decide to make body lift kits? There were a few reasons:

• When many folks want to do a "mild" 1" body lift, and there was nothing commercially available.
  • You either made your own or bought a 2" or 3" lift kit and cut it down to size
  • Either option requires a fair amount of time and money
  • Also, there are countless horror stories of improperly designed body lifts failing, such as drilling holes in hockey pucks, etc.
• Recently a few companies have begun offering 1" body lift blocks:
  • Rusty's Offroad, uses a cast block (not sure what metal is used), with holes that are too large for the stock Toyota hardware
  • Another option is to buy a readily available 2" or 3" body lift kit, cut down the blocks and buy new hardware but this costs approx. $100 and the bracketry will be the wrong size
    • Performance Accessories has 2" and 3" body lift kits available
  • It was apparent from the supplied components that it is doubtful anyone ever tried to actually install these kits on the target vehicle; bolts that are too long or too short, generic instructions, and general poor quality materials.
  • Use "hockey pucks" or washers, or other spacers, which may not last long in this application
• Finally, there are a number of "orphan" vehicles for which there is little or no aftermarket support for due to low demand.
  • If it has body-on-frame construction, it should be possible to make a body lift kit for it!

When it came time to upgrade my home-made 1" body lift, 4Crawler Offroad researched available materials and first decided to make a billet aluminum body lift block, similar in shape and size to the more common cast aluminum (at least that's what they claim they are made of) blocks, but out of stronger, solid material. The aluminum blocks were fine for a 1" lift, but a set of 3" tall blocks were made and installed, it just didn't look right. The 2" dia aluminum rod used was just not wide enough to offer support at 3" tall. While a larger diameter aluminum rod could have been used, it starts to get much more expensive and is harder to work.

After searching for a better material, Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) polyethylene rod was selected and is available in a variety of sizes perfect body lift blocks. It has all the desirable properties one would want in a body lift block. Since this rod comes in long lengths, it can becut any length desired from 1/2" up to 3" and anything in between. It takes a fairly significant investment in machinery and tooling to work this material. Also, since the parts are built to order, adapting them to other vehicles is not a large issue. After all, lifting a Toyota 4Runner 1" is fundamentally no different than lifting a Landcruiser or other vehicle 1". If it's got a body on frame construction and some way to get a spacer between the two, you've got a body lift.

At this point, you may be wondering what the heck a body lift is and why would you even want one...

Lifts in General:

So why a body lift and what other lift options are there? In general there are three basic techniques available to lift a vehicle:

1. Install larger diameter wheels and/or tires
2. Modify the suspension ride height
3. Raise the body off the frame (assuming its not a unitized body construction)

Usually, installing larger tires (#1) require that either #2 or #3 be done to provide adequate clearance for the tires within the wheel wells. Suspension lifts (#2) can be simple or complex, depending on what is modified and how it is done. Similarly, body lifts (#3) can be simple or complex, but are generally simpler and less complex and expensive than suspension modifications. Since the body lift only raises the body, it has less adverse impact on the vehicles center of gravity than other lift techniques, since the frame, engine and drive train remain at the original location.

If you assume a typical vehicle with perhaps 25% of it's mass in the body and perhaps 10% in the axles/wheels/tires, then look at the various types of lifts:

• Taller tires will raise nearly 100% of the vehicle's mass higher at the rate of 1" for every 2" of increase in tire diameter, since essentially every part of the vehicle is raised. Thus a 2" taller tire (i.e. 1" of lift) will raise the vehicle's center of gravity 1".
• A suspension lift will raise about 90% of the vehicle's mass (all but the ~10% unsprung weight of the axles, wheel and tires) at a rate of 1" for every 1" of lift. Since 90% of the mass is being raised 1", the center of gravity will raise about 0.9" as a result.
• A body lift will raise only 25% of the mass of the vehicle (i.e. only the body) so a 1" body lift will only change the center of gravity of the vehicle by that same ratio, or 0.25".
• So, while all the above lifts will raise the center of gravity of the vehicle, they do so at different rates for the same amount of lift. And it is the overall impact of all the lift that a given vehicle has that will ultimately affect it's stability.

By raising the body up off the frame, you can gain needed room for larger tires and/or added ground clearance to protect the body from trail damage. However, a body lift will do nothing to change the operation of your suspension by itself. However, by combining a mild body lift, with a mild suspension lift may allow fitting a taller tire and result in a combined system that functions better than the individual components.

Each type of lift has its advantage and disadvantages. After all if there were just one perfect way to lift a vehicle, everyone would use that techinique and you would have no other choices.

1. Taller tires increase ground clearance under every part of the vehicle and work better off road as they give more traction and are able to tackle bigger obstacles. On the downside, taller tires often require regearing to make up for the lost torque due to the greater tire diameter. Likewise a taller tire needs more room to fit under the vehicle without rubbing. So you can either trim the body away to fit the tire or somehow lift the body away from the tires to make room for them.
2. One way to make room between the body and tires is to raise the suspension. A suepnsion lift may offer better performance off road if it is capable of increased wheel travel and articulation. However, this is not always the case since some suspenion lifts use stiffer, less flexible springs or blocks or drop brackets that do little to improve suspension capability, aside from the lift. On the down side, suspension lifts test to be expensive and the talle rhte lift the more the cost, since more issues arise that need to be addressed. Along with the lift, you may need longer shocks, longer brake lines, longer drive shafts, etc. Susepension geometry may be negatively impacted. And on some vehicles, there is an upper limit to high high a lift can be done. Also, suspension lifts may be advertised as X", but you may see more or less lift than advertised.
3. This leads to the 3rd lift option of a body lift. Body lifts tend to be less expensive than suspension lifts. They are also more predictable in terms of lift height. After all you are placing a known thickness block between the frame and body and you will see exactly the amount of lift that the block is tall. So this makes a good alternative to getting that little extra lift you may find you need after installing a suspension lift, for example. A body lift will not affect drive shaft or shock absorber lengths. It will also not impact suspension or steering geometry. A body lift is a passive form of lift, in that it will not do anything to make your suspension work any better off road, aside from giving more room for the tires to move around under the body without making contact. Also there willl be no increase in under vehicle ground clearance (a.k.a. break over angle), unless you also raise the drive train and other low hanging components up to match the lift. However, if bumpers are raised to match the body lift, you may see increase approach and departure angles.

See the following section for a list of frequently asked body lift related questions...

Here are some frequently asked questions:

1. What constitutes a "mild" body lift?
2. So, 1" isn't all that much, is it even worth doing?
3. What about taller body lifts?
4. Why might I need a body lift at all?
5. I've got an XYZ vehicle, do you make a lift kit for it?
6. What if I have a flatbed on my pickup and only need to lift the cab, do I have to buy a "full kit"?
7. What is included in the body lift kit?
8. How much does it cost?
9. How long will it take to get the kit?
   1. How will I know my order has been received?
   2. How will I know when my order has been shipped?
   3. What if something is wrong with my order?
   4. Can I return lift kit components I don't use?
10. How large a tire can I fit with X" of lift?
11. What if I already have a body lift and want to remove it, reduce it's height or adapt it to another vehicle?
12. I'm looking for an "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kit, where do I find that?
13. What are bed spacers and do I need them?
14. I already have a suspension lift and have some tire rubbing, can I add a body lift on top of the suspension lift?

    Have a question not listed above, send an e-mail and we'll try to answer it.

1. What constitutes a "mild" body lift?

• In my definition, this is any body lift you can install before encountering major modifications.
• With the stock Toyota design, there are two likely "mild" lift points, one at about 1/2" and another at 1".
• At 1/2", you may be able to re-use the stock fasteners, taking advantage of the excess bolt length, to get a little bit of lift.
  • This assumes you have at least 1/2" of exposed bolt length past all the body mount nuts, check to be sure, this varies by year and body style.
    • If needed, 1/2" longer than stock hardware can be supplied.
  • Useful for installing rock sliders - exposes a bit more frame for stronger attachment.
• At 1", you'll need to replace the stock fasteners and possibly make minor modifications to a few other parts.
• Beyond 1", you'll start to have issues with more components like shift and steering linkages, gas tank filler hoses and other frame-body inter-connections, but on some vehicles, 1.5" or 2" lift is still pretty easy to do.
• An automatic transmission has more complex linkages than a manual transmission.
  • Most Toyota automatic transmission linkages can accommodate a 1" body lift without adjustment and there is a bolt-on bracket for 2" and 3" body lifts on 1st and 2nd gen 4Runners and pickups. The 3rd gen 4Runner and Tacoma A/T linkage is fully adjustable, so no bracket is needed up to a 3" lift.
• For the newer model Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering (like '96 and newer 4Runners, Tacomas, etc.) anything over a 1/2" body lift will likely require modification of the steering shaft.
  • A bolt-on steering shaft extension is available.

2. So, 1" isn't all that much, is it even worth doing?

• One way to look at that, is that using a 2" taller tire (say going from 31" to 33") will raise your vehicle 1", granted all points of the vehicle will go up 1", including the body, but an inch is an inch.
• From a simple-minded perspective, using a 2" taller tire, will require 1" additional wheel well clearance (may need more) and a 1" body lift can provide that 1".
• Toyota trucks have fairly long front and rear overhangs, anything you can do to raise the ends of the vehicle will increase your approach and departure angles.
• If you are planning to install body protection like nerf bars and bumpers, then raising the body up and tucking the protection in underneath will give you the protection and preserve the clearance angles.
  • Certain aftermarket bumpers are not possible to raise without major modifications. For example, the ARB pickup bumper is mounted in such a way as to make lifting it difficult. However, it is possible to leave it attached in the stock location.
• On vehicles with independent front suspensions, lift options are limited, so every little bit can help.
  • This '93 4Runner ran 33x12.50 tires with a 1" body lift.
• For leaf springs, more arch in the spring, often implies a stiffer spring rate as well. For example if 4" of lift is needed for a given tire size, then a 3" spring and 1" body lift may give a better result than a stiffer 4" spring by itself. By spreading the lift over different components, the impact on any one component is lessened. For example a 4" spring lift may require drive shaft modifications, while a 3" lift may not. Its all a matter of degree and cost vs. benefit.
• A 1" body lift can make accessing parts on the engine like filters and the starter *so* much easier, this is an often overlooked side benefit of a body lift. Also, certain engine modifications like V6 headers, engine or transmission swaps require some body lift to be installed at all. An example is the popular 3.4L V6 engine swap in the earlier Toyota pickups and 4Runners. That generally requires a 1" - 2" body lit to fit the taller intake under the hood. Without a body lift, a hole must be cut into the hood to let the intake components fit.
• Removing and installing the transmission can also be easier since you have access to to the upper mounting bolts.
• Finally, you may find in certain states and/or countries, only a certain amount of lift is allowed on a given vehicle in order to pass inspection. While you might like to lift the rig 3", it'll only be legal at a 1" lift. Be sure to check your local vehicle regulations prior to installing any lift.

3. What about taller body lifts?

• While a 1" body lift is considered mild, there are many folks running 2" and 3" body lifts. 3" is pretty much the maximum lift you should consider on the stock mounts. Above this and you should consider raising the mounting bracket on the frame to reduce the leverage caused by the taller blocks.
• At 2" on most Toyotas, you will find that in addition to the items that a 1" lift affects, you will need to extend the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
  • A stock front brake line works well for this.
• At 1" the radiator shroud was probably OK as-is, but at 2", you should drop the radiator to re-center it on the fan.
• Same story on the shift levers, while modifications are optional at 1", they will probably need to be done at 2" and for sure at 3"
• You'll also need to let the steering shaft lengthen a bit and chances are the upper engine ground strap may need to be lengthened.
• With a 1st gen. 4Runner, a 2" lift allows you to raise the gas tank 2" using the existing pickup mounting holes on the cross member.
• At 3", in addition to the above items need attention as well as dealing with fuel lines at the gas tank. One option at the 3" stage is to also lift the entire drive train by a similar amount.
  • For example, the engine and transmission could be raised for additional break-over angle, the fuel tank could be raised, etc. This will restore many of the interference areas to their original position.
  • This is what I chose to do on my 4Runner and you can find out more on that project here.
• Above 3" and you are asking for trouble and 4Crawler Offroad won't provide any components for that application. Best bet above 3" is to fabricate new body mount brackets raised up the desired amount and attach the body to the raised brackets without any lift blocks.

4. Why might I need a body lift at all?

• Lets assume you have installed a suspension lift in order to run larger tires. On level ground, you'll have lots of clearance between the tire and body. But, if your suspension has a decent amount of flex to it, when you bottom out the springs on the bump stops, what happens to the larger tire? Well, its now trying to fit into the same wheel well opening that was designed for the stock size tire and you may experience interference. So, by lifting the body up off the frame, you can gain clearance for larger tires to fit in off-road conditions. Other options are to trim the sheet metal around the wheel wells or run springs that are so stiff that they won't compress to the frame. Many people prefer a soft flexible spring with just enough lift to fit the tires, then a body lift to gain the clearance needed for off-road use.
• Body lifts are also commonly used with engine swaps and modifications like installing exhaust headers, etc. Lifting the body off the frame a bit gives a bit more room for larger engines, exhaust tubing or other components to fit. You may also find the increased clearance helps in routine maintenance tasks like working on starters, fuel filters, transmissions, etc.

5. I've got an XYZ vehicle, do you make a body lift kit for it?

• If it is not listed here, then 4Crawler Offroad doesn't have a design available for that application. But, everything listed on this page, outside the early Toyota 4Runner kits, has been designed with the help of people just like you that asked this very question.
• If you are willing to do the small amount of research needed to help 4Crawler Offroad design and build the kit, chances are the answer will be YES!
  • First, verify that the vehicle uses a body-on-frame construction.
    • Many modern vehicles use a uni-body or uni-frame construction where the body and frame end up being one piece.
    • If there are no body mounts, bushings or bolts visible underneath, then chances are the body can't be raised off the frame with a body lift.
  • Then, you need to know how many body mounts the vehicle has
    • And a rough idea of what size they are (i.e. 2" dia, 2.5" dia., etc.)
  • Then you will need to know what size the mounting hardware is:
    • Diameters and working lengths for each mounting bolt.
    • Aometimes there is unused thread on bolts, so if you see more than 1/2" of exposed thread beyond any body mount nut, note that information as it'll help size the replacement harfware properly.
      • Bolts commonly come with only 1" of threaded length, but some OEM hardware is custom designed with 2" or more threaded length to account for the excess length, probably because of some automated manufacturing issue.
  • If items need relocating like bumpers, radiators, etc., we'll need to know details on how they are mounted to the frame. You'll need to supply information on the size of the mounting bolts and the spacing of the holes (e.g. 12mm bolts, 60mm on center - then a bracket can be designed based upon this data).
  • Getting this data won't be all that hard, get under your rig and count the body mount locations. Find where all the bolts are, you should be able to loosen and remove one at a time, pull it out, measure it and put it back.
    • Get dimensions, take pictures, and send them to 4Crawler Offroad.
    • Bolt lengths are measured from the bottom of the head to the end of the shaft, DO NOT include the height of the head in the length. Also, some vehicles have, for example a 5" long bolt, but with 1" of thread exposed when installed, so, this should be noted, e.g. 'Bolt 5" long w/ 1" exposed thread'.
    • Bolt diameters are measured at the shaft, its not the size of wrench that fits on the head.
    • If a bolt goes into a captive nut inside the body, then the thread pitch (i.e. SAE, this will be Threads Per Inch, and if metric it'll be in mm/thread) will need to be measured.
    • Don't assume all bolts are the same diameter or length. They are usually the same side to side, but can be vastly different sizes in different locations. And don't just measure down from the underside of the floor or guess, you really need to pull the bolt out, measure the length and best if you can send a photo of all the bolts side by side with a ruler for scale. If should be no problem to remove a body mount bolt, no vehicle support is needed, gravity will keep the body in place, just make sure you put them back before driving it!
  • So you provide 4Crawler Offroad with the specifications, you will get a "custom" kit with no extra charge for the custom design work.
    • 4Crawler Offroad will hope to make up the design cost in additional sales of kits for that application.
    • This also assumes that 4Crawler Offroad is able to source the required hardware and other parts needed for the lift.
      • For example certain sizes of metric hardware is difficult to find in lengths over 120mm long.
  • This was recently done for the Kia Sportage body lift kit. Within 2 weeks of the initial contact, a kit had been designed, manufactured, and installed on the owners truck. A similar turnaround was seen fior the 3rd and 4th generation Toyota 4Runners, the FJ Cruiser and the various other Landcruiser models..
  • A 3" body lift is about the tallest that is safe and reasonable.
    • If planning a body lift over 3", please consider cutting the brackets off the frame and raise them up the desired amount and weld them on with added bracing. The life you save may be your own!
  • XYZ is not any specific vehicle, replace XYZ with Dodge, Jeep, Ford, or whatever vehicle you have and are interested in having a body lift kit designed for.
  • Cost will depend on the quantity and size of the blocks and hardware desired, here is some typical prices of some of the items:
    • 2" OD UHMW blocks are $5.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $1.50/inch (or any fraction thereof) over 1" tall.
    • 2-1/2" OD UHMW blocks run $6.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $2.00/inch (or fraction thereof) over 1" tall.
    • 3" OD UHMW blocks run $8.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $3.00/inch (or fraction thereof) over 1" tall.
    • 3-1/2" OD UHMW blocks run $10.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $4.00/inch (or fraction thereof) over 1" tall.
    • Longer bolts can run from $2.50/ea. to $5.00/ea. depending on diameter, length and grade.
  • If you want to cut your own blocks for a custom application, bulk UHMW rod is available as noted below:
    • 2" OD UHMW rod priced at $20.00/ft.
    • 2-1/2" OD UHMW rod priced at $30.00/ft.
    • 3" OD OD UWHW rod priced at $40.00/ft.
    • 3-1/2" OD UHMW rod priced at $54.00/ft.

6. What if I have a flatbed on my pickup and only need to lift the cab, do I have to buy a "full kit"?

• No problem, every kit is built to order. If you only need 6 blocks for the cab, that's what you order. If you've bobbed the bed on your pickup and only have 6 bed mounts instead of 8, that's what you order. If you only want 3/4" or 1.5" instead of 1" or 2", that's what you order. For example, an Ultimate lift kit for a pickup cab (only - bed replaced w/ a frame-mounted flatbed) would include 2-2" and 4-2.5" dia. blocks and 1/2 of a pickup hardware kit, since the flat bed is attached to the frame directly and probably won't be lifted. Contact 4Crawler Offroad for special pricing on these combinations.

7. What is included in the body lift kit?

• What is included in your kit depends on what you need. See above question for the case of a pickup cab only, no need to purchase the bed hardware. Each "kit" is built to order to meet your needs. See the pricing and options pages here for some common combinations. If the combination you need is not listed, don't worry, it is likely available.
• Basically, you need:
  • Blocks to raise the body off the frame
  • Longer bolts and hardware to fasten the body back to the frame
  • Assorted brackets, spacers, etc. to relocate items that cross the frame<->body interface
• Need some help designing your kit? I'm available by e-mail to discuss your particular needs.

8. How much does a body lift kit cost?

• Here are some common vehicles with kit pricing listed separately:
  • 1979-1995 2WD/4WD Toyota pickup
  • 1984-2007 2WD/4WD Toyota 4Runner
  • 1995.5-2004 2WD/4WD Toyota Tacoma pickup
  • Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero and Dodge Raider
  • Kia Sportage
• Some other vehicle kit options are listed elsewhere on this web page

9. How long will it take to get the kit?

• 4Crawler Offroad tries to stock most of the common parts for the various lift kits (nuts, bolts, etc.) Other parts are fabricated as needed to fill orders. Think of the popular fast food place, your hamburger is made to order while you wait, "Have It Your Way". Typically this can take 1 - 2 weeks, depending on backlog. However, at the current time, the 2.5" dia. UHMW material is on back order until late June, 2009. New orders will not be able to ship until after that material is in stock.
• Realize that we are not just sitting here waiting for your order to arrive, so there are likely quite a few orders ahead of yours in the queue. It may take less time for simple orders and up to a week more for complex kits. So don't place an order a couple of days before you have time scheduled for a shop to install your kit.
• Parts are shipped via US Mail by default. Delivery time depends on shipping distance and method, Priority Mail is the default shipping method, 2-3 day typical delivery time in the US and 6-10 days for international delivery. Parts may also be picked up in the SF Bay Area of California if you prefer.
• How will I know my order has been received?
  • An acknowledgement will be sent by e-mail when your order is received. If the order was placed via Paypal, you'll see the transaction status change to "In Process" once the order is received or "On Hold" if further information is required. Note that "In Process" indicates that the kit is IN the PROCESS of being fabricated to your specifications. Unfortunately, due to some changes made in the Paypal order system, this feature is not working at the current time.
• How will I know when my order has been shipped?
  • A package tracking number will be e-mailed to you, if applicable, when the parts ship. Again, on Paypal orders, a shipping status e-mail will be sent from Paypal with any applicable tracking information and likewise, the transaction status page will show the same information and your package will generally be shipped the same day you get the shipping notification e-mail. Note on orders shipped via US Mail, the tracking number may not update as frequently as with other carriers. This is because the tracking number is only guaranteed to be scanned upon delivery of the package. You may be able to get more accurate tracking information by taking the tracking number to the Post Office and have them look up the status on their internal system. And just like the hamburger place, 4Crawler Offroad does not keep stacks of orders sitting around that are ready to ship. When your order is complete, it is boxed, labelled and dropped off at the shipper typically on the same day.
• What if something is wrong with my kit when I receive it?
  • If the package was damaged in shipment and some parts fell out or if you think you received incorrect parts or are missing parts, please be prepared to provide photographic documentation of the contents of the package. Contact 4Crawler Offroad via e-mail and state the nature of the problem and attach any images you have. If parts are missing or damaged, 4Crawler Offroad will attempt to send out replacements in a timely manner and also file a claim with the shipper on insured shipments. You must of course request insured shipping if you wish to have that coverage. If parts of of an incorrect size or application, please let us know and we'll try to work out the issue. The only way that 4Crawler Offroad will know about these sorts of issues is to get feedback.
• Can I return lift kit components I don't use?
  • Yes, any lift component can be returned (in unused condition) for credit/refund (less a 10% restocking fee) if not needed for the lift. The refund will be based upon the actual parts cost, less any shipping costs. Return shipping will not be refunded. Likewise, any Paypal transaction fees may not be refunded if outside 60 days of the original order or if a different Paypal account is used or a check payment is requested. Used parts may be returned for a credit based upon their condition, to be determined upon receipt. It would be adviseable to use some form of package tracking and/or insurance and feel free to send that tracking number to 4Crawler Offroad so we can be on the lookout for your return parts to arrive. Return parts to the address on your invoice or the one below:
    • 4Crawler Offroad
    • PO Box 61092
    • Sunnyvale, CA. 94088-1092

10. How large a tire can I fit with X" of lift?

• There is no way to provide an exact answer to this question, at least in general. There are so many variables, the actual diameter and width of the tire, the profile of the tread, the size and offset of the wheel, the suspension mods on the vehicle, your willingness to make minor of major mods to the body (fender trimming) all come into play.
• The best bet is to locate a lift vs. tire size chart for your vehicle and see if that helps. For example, if you have a Toyota Tacoma, then the Tacoma Territory Tire and Lift FAQ section should have your answer.
  • If that file is not available, an alternate version is available here...
• If you have a vehicle that is similar to another, for example the 3rd gen 4Runner and the Tacoma are very close in design, so the above lift vs. tire size chart should be pretty close. Other options are to find a vehicle specific forum and ask other owners what they are running, lift-wise for a given tire size.
  • There is a good writeup on the inner fender trimming process (aka Pinch Weld Mod) about half way down this web page.
• Short of a vehicle specific forum, you can try measuring. A body lift will raise the body up and most tire fitment issues are with the front wheels, because of the steering. See if you can find the worst case suspension/steering combination and then carefully measure clearance around the current tire and allow for the larger tire. For example, assume you want to go from a 31x10.50 to a 33x12.50 tire on the same rim. The new tire will therefore be 1" wider on the inside of the wheel, 1" wider on the outside and will extend 1" farther out from the wheel. So, if you had a 1" square block and could run that around the face of the tread and sidewalls all they way around the wheel well without hitting anything, chances are that tire would fit. If it does hit something like the fender, would raising it, say 1", make any difference? If it hits some part of the steering or suspension, then a body lift won't help.
• For the IFS Toyota pickups and 4Runners ('86-'95) the following tire/lift combinations apply:
  • 31x10.50 will fit fine, no mods
  • 32x11.50 should fit, may require minor adjustments
  • 33x9.50/10.50 may fit w/ no lift on stock wheels w/ minor fender trimming and torsion bar adjustment
  • 33x12.50 on 15x8/4.75" backspace wheels needs 1" body lift, and front torsion bar lift (1"-2") or 1.5" ball joint spacer and some sort of rear suspension lift (such as longer spring shackles or a coil spring spacer) to level the truck, plus some fender trimming. Here is a picture of this combination showing the minor front fender trimming needed to fit the tires. Conventional wisdom suggests a full 4" IFS lift for this wheel/tire combination, but using a combination of milder lift components will produce the same end result that will function as well if not better than the taller all-in-one lift kit and at less cost. And in case you think this won't work, take a look at this very combination in action in 4x4Wire's Hot Toys write-up on Don West's '94 pickup.
  • 35x12.50 on 15x8 w/ 3.75" backspace wheels needs 4" IFS suspension lift plus 2" body lift for good fit. Many IFS lifts require less backspacing on the wheels to clear the dropped A-arms, this in turn pushes the wheels/tires out farther from the body, making tire/body contact more of an issue. The 2" body lift can help reduce rubbing. Less lift may be possible with more fender trimming.
• With all lifts, whether body or suspension: "Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
  • What this means is that for best results add as much lift as needed to meet your needs but no more. If 1" of lift is enough for your application, going to 2" or 3" is just extra cost, more installation issues you may encounter, etc.
• So, I want to do a mild lift, which type of lift do I choose, suspension or body?
  • Ideally, you would want to get the suspension set up first. Why? Because suspension lifts are the most variable in terms of how much lift you will get. That is you may get more or less lift than the kit was "advertised" to provide. Nothing wrong with this, it is just life. Your vehicle may be lighter or heavier than what the kit was designed for. Also, things like springs settle over time. Also suspension lifts vary in flexibility, so your new suspension may or may not allow the wheels to compress up as much as stock.
  • All this said, if after setting up the suspension to your liking and installing the desired size tires, and you find out you get some tire rubbing, then is the time to size up the body lift. When you can see how much tire rubbing you are getting, you can decide if some inner fender trimming is all that is needed, or if raising the body up vertically 1", 2", etc. is what is needed.

11. What if I already have a body lift and want to remove it, reduce it's height or adapt it to another vehicle?

• 4Crawler Offroad is happy to work with you to do this. We can offer kits to replace the body mount hardware to restore the vehicle to stock height. We can also supply lower height lift blocks in almost any combination and can also supply components needed to adapt a lift kit for one vehicle to another. Just drop us a line and we'll be happy to help you with your project. And for many vehicles listed below, simply order the 0" kit D to get a set of stock height hardware to allow for a body lift to be removed.
• And removal is the reverse process of installation. In short, you'll need to remove all the relocation brackets that were installed with the lift. These may include the bumpers, radiator, steering shaft, gas tank filler hoses, etc. Then you'll remove the body lift blocks and longer bolts, lower the body down and the replace those bolts with the stock length bolts (kit D as mentioned above).
• One question that always comes up when removing a body lift is what about the body mount bushings? One common misconception is that a body lift replaces the body mount bushings with the body lift blocks. Except in a few cases where the body lift is done via taller body mount bushings, you generally leave the body mount bushings in place and then add the body lift blocks between the body mount bushing and the body, as noted in this section of this web page. Now that is not to say that you might want to replace the body mount bushings along with removing the body lift. Inspect your body mount bushings and see if they are worn out or damaged. With the older factory rubber body mount bushings, time and the added wear and tear of the body lift blocks (especially the undersized blocks commonly used in the various after market kits out there), those bushings may be ready for replacement. Simply add kit P to your parts order and get a new set of poly urethane body mout bushings to swap out for the worn out rubber parts. And there is no better time to do this, as you'll have perfect access to the body mount bushings when you remove the body lift.

12. I'm looking for an "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kit, where do I find that?

• 4Crawler Offroad is the name of the company that was created and is owned by Roger Brown. So some people mistakingly call the kits "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kits. 4Crawler Offroad would like to encourage everyone to use the official company name when referring to these products to help avoid confusion and for legal reasons as well. It would be the same as walking into your local computer store and asking for a copy of "Bill Gates Word" or "Larry Ellison Database" software. Hopefully you would get what you were looking for, but you may not. So, to answer the Frequently Asked Question "Where can I find an RB body lift kit?" The answer is there is no such a thing.

13. What are bed spacers and do I need them?

• In many vehicles, the bed of the vehicle rests on the frame without being physically connected, as at a real body or bed mount bracket. This typically happens under the rear wheel well, where it would be difficult to add a support bracket to the frame to attach the bed to. Instead, the bed rail (on both pickups and also on many full-bodied vehicles like 4Runners) simply rests on the frame rail. In cases where the bed is heavily loaded and tries to sag, that point of contact will support the load in the bed without it bending in the middle. This is mainly useful if you carry heavy, unsupported loads, such as sand, gravel, sod, etc. If you instead carry loads like a motorcycle, lumber or other cargo capable of supporting itself in the middle, then the bed is less likely to sag. When a body lift is installed and the bed is raised above the frame, this contact point no longer is effective. This a "bed spacer" can be attached to the frame to provide a raised point of contact for the bed. So the questions that come up with bed spacers are do you "need" them and how many do you need?
  • Need is determined by how you use your vehicle, specifically for cargo carrying. If the most you put in your vehicle's bed is a cooler and pair of folding chairs, then you probably don't need the spacers, at least to support the bed. If you haul heavy, bulk cargo, then yes, you do need them. And as to how many? Look at your vehicle, locate and count the number of places the bed rests on the frame. Typically there is just one contact point on each side in the rear wheel well, you one pair of spacers is what you need. Some pickups, have to sets of contact points, but they are nearly at the same place. So you could get by with one pair or put spacers at both pair of locations. It is all up to you and what you want your body lift to encompass.

14. I already have a suspension lift and have some tire rubbing, can I add a body lift on top of the suspension lift?

• Sure, there are generally no issues combining the two. A suspension lift raises the frame above the axles. A body lift raises the body above the frame.
  • If you consider the two lifts, you could imagine supporting the frame on jack stands and removing the front and rear axles, the body would not "know" the difference. This would be an "infinite" suspension lift, not very practical, but just to illustrate the point. Likewise, imagine removing the body entirely from the frame and moving it some place else. This would be an "infinite" body lift, again not practical, but illustrates the point that the frame, suspension and axles could "care less" that the body is not present. Practical suspension and body lifts leave their respective parts connected and just provide a reasonable amount fo lift.
• So, within reason, a suspension lift and a body lift can be installed on the same vehicle. This is often a good combination, letting a mild suspension lift be combined with a mild body lift to allow a larger size tire to be fitted without rubbing than could be fit with one or the other lift alone. Likewise, the cost of say a 2" suspension and 2" body lift may by much less than to buy a full 4" lift kit with complex brackets, etc.

Body Mount Tech:

Body mounts are what connect your trucks frame to the cab and/or bed. For strength, pickup beds are typically bolted directly to the frame, while the cab is mounted with compliant bushings (usually rubber or polyurethane) to isolate the cab from road noise and vibration. Starting at the front, there are two mounts behind the bumper, two more are located at the front foot well, two more behind the front seats. Then, in the 4Runner, there are two more in the rear passenger seat well, and two more at the rear of the cargo area. The pickup has 8 mounts on the bed (4 on each side), two near the front of the bed and two near the rear. You should try to locate each mounting point, and be sure you can gain access to both the top and bottom of each mounting bolt before undertaking a body lift.

The body/bed are connected to the frame by the mounts, as described above, to brackets (or horns) attached to the frame. In a body lift, spacers are installed between the body and the mounting brackets or bushings to lift the body above the frame.

From the factory, you'll find rubber body mount bushings. Over time, the rubber cracks and weakens with age. This can lead to what is called "shudder", which is a sort of side-to-side shaking felt when hitting bumps on the road. I tried everything to correct this problem on both my Toyota Landcruiser ('74 FJ-55) and later on my '85 4Runner, but nothing seemed to help until I installed polyurethane body mount bushings. It seems counter intuitive, that putting on a stiffer, less compressible bushing material would actually reduce this vibration, but that's what seems to happen. I think the vibration is actually caused by the relative motion allowed by the softer rubber. In technical terms, the resonant frequency is proportional to the stiffness of the compliant member. The rubber is soft and very compliant, leading transmission of the low frequency shudder, that is within the frequency range of bumps transmitted up from the road. The stiffer polyurethane, shifts the resonant frequency up to a higher value, which is effectively absorbed by the suspension of the vehicle.

All this leads to the point that if you are going to the trouble of installing a body lift, why not also put in some new polyurethane bushings, too. They should run somewhere in the $50-100 range and will make a dramatic improvement in the ride quality of your vehicle. If done with the lift, there is minimal extra work required. If you don't change out the stock bushings, the added leverage of the lift blocks may contribute to a worsened ride quality. A couple of polyurethane bushing manufacturers are:

• Energy Suspension
• Prothane Motion Control

4Crawler Offroad carries both of these brands for various applications. Typically, body mount bushing kits often include no instructions and even if they do, make no mention of body lift blocks. See the schematic diagram, below, for a simplified cross section of a properly installed body lift and bushing together. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured) or one-piece:

Color Code:

Part supplied in body lift kit

Part supplied in poly bushing kit

Original or existing part

      XX        New longer bolt
     ----       Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~   Floor of the cab or bed
    +----+
    |    |      Body Lift Block
    |    |      
    +----+    
   --------     New washer (if supplied w/ poly bushing kit)
   +------+
   |      |     Large poly bushing (Body or cab only)
   +------+ 
  ==========    Bracket off of the frame   
    +----+    
    |    |      Small poly bushing (Body or cab only)
     \--/    
     ----       Factory Washer
      XX        New lock nut

If re-using the stock body mount bushings, the picture is a little different:

Original or existing part

      XX        New longer bolt
     ----       Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~   Floor of the cab or bed
    +----+
    |    |      Body Lift Block
    |    |      
    +----+    
   --------     Factory top washer (bonded to body mount bushing, not separate)
   +------+
   |      |     Large factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
   +------+ 
  ==========    Bracket off of the frame   
    +----+    
    |    |      Small factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
     \--/    
   --------     Small factory washer
      XX        New lock nut

There is a metal bushing that goes inside the poly bushings, it gets sandwiched between the two washers outside the poly bushings and keeps them from getting compressed too much. When you tighten down the bolts, you bottom out this internal bushing. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured below) or one-piece. The following image is an excellent rendering of a typical body mount, courtesy of John Evaskovich:

One concern with body lift blocks is possible electrolytic corrosion due to dissimilar metals touching. This can be a problem with aluminum blocks and the steel of the body. so a graphite paint coating is used on the aluminum blocks, so they should be fine against the body. If you want, you could cut out some plastic washers from an old plastic bottle and use that to separate the aluminum and steel if desired to prevent possible electrolytic action. The big advantage of the UHMW polyethylene body lift blocks is that they eliminate this possible problem, as polyethylene is inert and self-lubricating, so you won't even have problems with the paint wearing off the steel and causing rust as is common with extruded fiberglass blocks.

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Body Lift Kits:

What exactly is in a body lift kit?

• Something to put between the frame and the body (lift blocks)
• Longer-than-stock bolts to hold the body to the frame (mounting hardware)
• Various brackets to relocate items that connect between the frame and body, such as:
  • Bumpers, front and rear
  • Steering Shaft
  • Radiator
  • Shift Linkage

So, which vehicles do these kits fit?

• Toyota:
  • 1979-1995 2WD/4WD Pickup/Hilux/Trekker (click here for pricing and options)
  • 1984-2007 2WD/4WD 4Runner/Hilux Surf (click here for pricing and options)
  • 1995.5-2004 2WD/4WD Tacoma (click here for pricing and options)
    • 2005 and later? Kits possible, just need the specs
  • Tundra, T-100
    • Kits possible, just need the specs
    • For the Tundra, lift blocks are available:
      • 2 - 2"OD and 8 - 2.5" OD blocks, cost $58.00 in 1" tall, $77.00 in 2" tall, $96.00 in 3" tall.
      • 2 - 2"OD and 10 - 2.5" OD blocks, cost $70.00 in 1" tall, $93.00 in 2" tall, $116.00 in 3" tall.
      • Additionally, you can typically use 2 additional 2"OD blocks for raising the front bumper, cost $10-1", $13.00-2", $16-3".
  • Landcruiser (click here for models, pricing and options):
    • Including FJ-40, FJ-55, FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62, FJ-80 and FJ Cruiser
• Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero and Dodge Raider/D50 pickup (Gen-I and Gen-II vehicles, click here for vehicle-specific kit pricing):
• Kia Sportage (click here for vehicle-specific kit pricing):
• Isuzu:
  • Amigo - Tony Vang has a nice 2" lifted '99 Amigo
    • Uses 8 - 2.5" OD blocks, cost: 1" - $48.00, 2" - $64.00, 3" - $80.00
    • For a more complete lift kit, provide the information requested here...
  • Rodeo - 1/2" and 1" lift kits
    • 2WD uses 10 - 2" OD blocks (cost $50.00)
    • 4WD uses 10 - 2" OD and 2 2.5" OD blocks (cost $62.00)
      • For the 1" / 4WD lift, 4 hardware options:
        • Supply your own
        • 6 longer metric bolts for the rear (cost $25.00)
        • 6 longer metric rear and 6 longer SAE bolts for the front (cost $40.00)
        • 12 longer metric bolts for all body mounts (cost $50.00)
      • 1/2" lift can re-use stock hardware
    • Taller lift blocks, only (2" and 3") are available for special order
      • Add $15.00 per extra inch of height for 2WD kits and $19.00 for 4WD kits
    • Should also fit Honda Passport models
• Nissan
  • Frontier pickup
    • Uses 4-6 2" OD blocks and 6-8 2.5" OD blocks (total of 12 typically) and 1-2 pair of bed spacers
      • 2" blocks drilled for 3/8" bolt and 2.5" blocks drilled for 1/2" bolt
      • 2" OD blocks/ea.: $5.00/1", $6.00/2", $7.00/3"
      • 2.5" OD blocks/ea.: $6.00/1", $8.00/2", $10.00/3"
      • Bed spacers/pr.: $10.00/1", $13.00/2", $14.00/3"
    • For other hardware/brackets, see this section of the web page.
• IH Scout
  • 80 and 800 series, 9 - 2" OD blocks, 7/16" center hole
    • 1" - $45.00, 2" - 58.50, 3" - $72.00
• Other vehicles - Information on custom applications
  • Range Rover uses 10 - 2" OD blocks
  • Ford Brono uses 8 - 2.5" OD blocks

Below are some examples about what kind of options are available:

Aluminum Lift Blocks	UHMW-PE Lift Blocks
Toyota 4Runner Kit	Toyota Pickup Kit
Toyota FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 Landcruiser	Kia Sportage
Pickup/Tacoma Bed Spacers	Steering Shaft Extension

• Body lift blocks
  • 1/2" - 3" lift w/ or w/o hardware:
    • A lathe is used to drill the bolt hole in the center of the block
      • A close fit is an important design feature as it keeps the body from shifting around on the frame, taller lift blocks have slightly larger holes drilled to ease installation of the longer bolts.
      • Cast blocks often have oversized, irregularly shaped holes due to the nature of the mfg. process
      • On UHMW blocks taller than 1", you may notice a slight deviation of the hole from the center of the block due to variations in the block diameter in the extrusion process. Since the blocks are slightly oversized in most applications, the slight offset from center has no affect on the function of the block.
    • The one face of the block is than machined square to the axis of the center hole
    • Then the opposite face is machined square and the edges are slightly chamfered to reduce stress concentrations

    

  • Lift block options:
    • 2" dia. billet Aluminum Blocks
      • Cost is $6.00/ea for the 1" tall blocks
        • Add $3.00 per inch over 1" tall, only by special order.
    • UHMW Poly Ethylene blocks
      • Available in both 2"nominal dia. and 2.5"nominal dia blocks.
      • UHMW is a dense plastic, that will eliminate possible corrosion and squeaking problems that could potentially happen with a metallic block.
      • UHMW blocks are available in two sizes:
        • Standard body lift:
          • All 2" dia. blocks
        • Ultimate body lift:
          • Combination of 2" dia. for front and bed mounts, and 2.5" dia. for remaining cab mounts:
          • The Ultimate blocks are the same diameter as the larger cab/body mounts so offer the ultimate in strength, both in the block itself as well as spreading the load of the body over the sheet metal contact point.
            • The Ultimate block has approx. 42% larger surface area than the 2" block.
        • Custom height lift blocks are available as well:
          • Any size lift from 1/2" to 3", no-cost consultation on your custom applications
            • Specify center bolt hole size for drilling
            • A 1/2 " body lift is an interesting proposition, as many stock mounting bolts have approx. 1/2" of excess length, so this height lift, while not a lot, can be done without the added expense of replacing the stock bolts. If interested in this option, 4Crawler Offroad can make 1/2" blocks, drilled for the 10mm stock bolts
      • A new product addition is a 1-3/8" body lift block for the Kia Sportage. This block has a number of important features:
        • It is 3.5" in diameter with an integral "cup" to contain the rubber body mount bushing as well as a tapered end that fits into the "cup" on the underside of the body.
        • It has a 19mm center hole to accommodate the factory body mounts bolts and is the tallest lift possible with the existing hardware, a total of 8 are required.
  • Longer bolts and nylon lock nuts:
    • The stock bolts will not work beyond about 1/2" of lift on most vehicles
    • Two hardware options are available, standard and heavy duty:
      • Standard bolts have approx. the same strength as the factory hardware and will fit the stock body washers without modification
      • Heavy duty bolts are about 25% stronger than stock and will fit into the stock mounting holes and body washers with some slight modifications.
      • The pickup bed bolts (or nuts) include tabs (like stock, where applicable) for ease of installation.
    • Hardware is SAE Grade 5 or better, which combines good tensile as well as shear strength.
      • Hardware is either zinc or cadmium plated for corrosion resistance
    • You may also supply your own mounting hardware
      • If you want to use custom size bolts, blocks can be drilled to your specifications or even supplied un-drilled
  • Radiator drop brackets (if needed):
    • The radiator (and fan shroud) are attached to the body, the engine (and fan) to the frame
      • Fits standard 20cm Toyota radiator bolt spacing, drilled for 1" and 2" drop
    • You may be able to simply remove the lower radiator shroud extension
      • With a 1" lift, you will have to modify the radiator flange a bit to install the bracket
        • Please refer to the installation instructions for details
      • An electric radiator fan eliminates this problem as the fan is attached to the radiator and not the engine
      • Tacoma trucks do not require a bracket and it is possible to simply use existing or new mounting holes
  • Stock front bumper drop bracket and hardware (if needed):
    • Will raise stock bumper to original height as bumper will no longer fit with body lift
      • On 4Runners, the rear bumper is attached to the underside of the body
  • Stock rear bumper relocation hardware (Tacoma pickups)
    • Hardware kit allows existing rear bumper brackets to be modified to match body lifts from 1"-3" and re-use the stock bumper bracket bolts.
  • A bracket for raising Toyota A/T transfer case lever for 2" or 3" is now available:
    • Bracket includes mounting hardware.
  • A steering shaft extension for Toyota rack and pinion as well as recirculating ball steering box steering:
    • Extension bolts on to the stock rag joint and extends the shaft 1" or more
  • Bed Spacers
    • For certain vehicles, there are places where the bed or body is supported by contact with the frame. While the body lift blocks and longer bolts will properly support the bed or body, for added load capacity, a separate bed spacer can be bolted or welded to the frame to provide a contact point.
  • If you want to "roll your own", click here for a VRML model of a body lift block
    • A proper body lift block should be uncompressible, there should be minimal play between the bolt and block to prevent it from racking
    • If interested in "rolling your own", I'd be more than happy to supply you with a suitable quantity of material:
      • 2" UHMW rod at $2.00/inch, 2.5" at $3.00/inch and $1.00 per cut on either item

One thing about many of the commercially available body lift kits is that they are an all-in-one package, one size fits all:

• If you want just the blocks, you have to buy the whole kit and throw away the parts you don't need.
• If you want shorter blocks, you cut the taller blocks in two and throw away the parts you don't need.
  • Much of the hardware supplied is specific to the amount of lift in the blocks, so it can't be re-used.
  • Bolts only have thread on the lower inch or so of the bolt, so if its shortened more than this, its no longer a bolt, its just a round rod with a hex head on top.

So, 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to supply a body lift in an "ala carte" form, e.g. you want blocks, you order the blocks; you want bolts, you order the bolts, etc. Here is a list of some common combinations of parts that are typically ordered.

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Poly Urethane Body Mount Bushings:

While not required, on 1st generation Toyota trucks ('79-'88 pickups and '84-'89 4Runners), it is a good idea to check the condition of the stock rubber body mount bushings and if cracked or worn out, chang them to polyurethane (PU). PU will withstand the added strain of the taller body lift, and it actually transmits less noise and vibration from the frame to the body than rubber. Onfortunately, due to the recent high oil prices, the cost of polyurethane has skyrocketed, so the cost of the bushing kits has gone up as well. Polyurethane body mount kits are offered in the following configurations (and can be used as-is or with a body lift ):

• Toyota
  • Pickup:
    • ('79-'88) - $80.00 (6 cab mounts, 6 - 2 piece bushings)
    • ('89-'95) - $95.00 (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece bushings)
      • Pickups have no bushings between the bed and the frame
  • 4Runner:
    • ('84-'89) - $100.00 (10 body mounts, all 2 piece bushings)
    • ('90-'95) - $150.00 (10 body mounts, 6 - 2 piece and 4 2 piece bushings)
    • ('96-only) - 9th and 10th body mount brackets+bushings $75.00
    • ('96-'99) - $170 (10 body mounts, 8 - 2piece, and 2 - 1 piece bushings)
    • ('00-'02) - $200 (10 body mounts, 6 - 2piece, and 4- 1 piece bushings
  • Landcruiser
    • FJ-40
      • (1/64 - 12/78) - $135.00 - (12 - 2"x2" and 1 - 2"x4" body mount, color black)
    • FJ-55
      • (1968-7/1980) - $180.00 - (10 2-piece bushings, sleeves and washers)
    • FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62
      • (all years) - $150.00 - (12 body mounts, includes custom mix of sizes to fit the body mount cups, as needed, see #3 below)
  • Tacoma:
    • 1995.5 - 2000 (all models) - $95.00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece bushings)
    • 2001 - 2004 (std. and xtra cab models) - $115.00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece)
    • 2001- 2004 (double cab models) - $125.00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece + spacers and new hardware)
      • Tacoma pickups have no bushings between the bed and the frame
• Mitsubishi
  • Montero/Pajero/(Dodge Raider):
    • LWB: $190.00 (12 body mounts)
    • SWB: $160.00 (10 body mounts) and $130.00 (8 body mounts)
    • On some Generation 2 Monteros, the front pair of body mounts is a 1 piece unit and can't be replaced.
      • If so, leave these body mounts as-is and replace the remaining ones.
      • You can order a kit with 2 fewer mounts if this applies or return the unused bushings.
  • D50/Pickup:
    • Cab-only: ($90.00) (6 body mounts)

Note: Bushing kit prices discounted $5.00 -10.00 with body lift kit purchase.

1. Stock rubber vs. Poly Urethane	2. Pickup('84-'88) 4Runner('84-'89) Bushings Current bushing set is all black	3. FJ/BJ/HJ-60/2 Body Mounts Current bushing set is all black	4. Montero LWB Body Mounts
			Your body mounts here...
5. Pickup'89+/Tacoma Mounts	6. '90-95 4Runner Mounts Current bushing set is all black	7. '96-00 4Runner Mounts Current bushing set is all black	Your body mounts here...

Pictured above:

1. A set of stock rubber body mount bushings (black) and replacement poly urethane bushings (red)
   1. Large bushing: 62mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
   2. Small bushing: 45mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
   3. Lower bushing: 42mm OD x 16mm ID x 23mm H
   4. Steel sleeve: 16mm OD x 12.5mm ID x 42mm long
2. A typical polyurethane body mount kit. To the left is a pickup kit, with a total of 6 cab mount bushings, or with all 10, you have a 1st generation 4Runner kit. Also shown at the top are the new top washers which are drilled to accept either stock or or the larger body lift mounting bolts. The stock body mounts have the washers bonded to the rubber, so they can't be easily re-used.
3. A typical Landcruiser FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 body mount kit has 12 body mount bushings with custom sized bushings as needed
   1. Generally 2, 4, or 6 - 55mm bushings are needed on the F/BJ-60/2, depending on year.
   2. Pictured above (3) you can see a kit with 4 - smaller and 8 larger bushings (total of 12)
4. A Mitsubishi Montero also has 12 body mounts
   1. Upper bushing: 60mm OD x 17mm ID x 23mm H x 29mm frame bracket hole
   2. Lower bushing: 51mm OD x 17mm ID x 33mm H
   3. Steel sleeve (not included): 17mm OD x 12.5mm ID (est) x 50mm long (est)
5. '89-'95 Toyota Pickup and '95.5-'00 Toyota Tacoma 1-piece body mount bushings
6. 2nd Gen 4Runner ('90-'95) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit of 6 1-piece bushings and 4 2-piece bushings.
   1. Note the arrangement of the bushing parts, shown front-rear (left-right) and the thin (1/4") and thick (1/2") spacers, or with a body lift, the rear most lift blocks will be 1/4" and 1/2" taller than the rest of the blocks, respectively.
   2. Bushings and blocks are labelled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, Rear
7. 3rdGen 4Runner ('96-'00) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit or 2 1-piece bushings and 8 2-piece bushings (or 4 1-piece and 6 2-piece bushings depending on year, picture shows combined 1" body lift and '96-'99 poly bushing kit)
   1. With no body lift, you'll have an assortment of thin spacers to make up height differences between the stock and replacement bushings and with a body lift, the lift blocks will have differing heights, ranging from 1/2" to 7/8" taller than the ordered kit. Again, this is to make up for the difference in height between the stock body mount bushings and the new poly bushings. When installed, the combination of the shorter poly bushing and the taller block will be the same height as the stock bushing and shorter block.
   2. Bushings and blocks are labelled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, Rear

Notes:

• On the hybrid body mount kits, there will often be two different color bushings, due to different mfgs. If you wish to paint the red bushings black, do so after they are installed.
  • Clean the bushings off with a good solvent, rough up the surface gloss with some sandpaper and then spray with flat black paint once they are installed.
  • You can't paint then prior to installation because the paint will flake off when the bushings are compressed.
• If you have a vehicle not listed above, that uses 2-piece rubber body mounts, and would like to see about upgrading to poly urethane, contact 4Crawler Offroad and we'll be happy to work with you to develop a solution if possible.
  • You'll need to supply detailed dimensions of the existing bushings, inner and outer diameters, height of upper and lower halves, etc.
• Don't need a full set of bushings? No problem, individual bushings are available for purchase. Contact 4Crawler Offroad with your requirements...

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Body Mount Brackets:

Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 Toyota 4Runner, are missing the B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount locations available for the most support. Below is a picture of a bolt on body mount bracket kit for the 1996 Toyota 4Runner:

Body Mount Bracket Kit

Pictured at the bolt-on black brackets, self-tapping bolts to fasten them to the frame, red polyurethane body mount bushings and bolts to fasten the body to the mount. Also pictured are a pair of 1" body lift blocks, in which case the bolts supplied are 1" longer to accommodate the lift.

Note: This kit can be used without a body lift for added support on a stock '96 4Runner. Cost for the basic kit is $70.00 plus shipping. Add a pair of 1" body lift blocks for another $10.

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Standard vs. Ultimate Lift Blocks:

Most (if not all) commercial body lift kits I've looked at use a "one size fits all" approach. You get one diameter of lift block (usually 2" OD) and that is to be used in all body mount locations. If you are a bit confused about the difference between the Standard and Ultimate body lift blocks, below are various combinations (of lift blocks - white UHMW or aluminum) installed on actual Toyota body mount bushings (the black rubber things) so you can see the differences:

A. 2-piece body mounts	B. Ultimate Lift Blocks
C. Aluminum vs. UHMW	D. Aluminum Lift Blocks

• Photo A is an example of the 2-piece body mounts common in '79-'88 pickups and '84-'89 4Runners (i.e. 1st generation). The smaller mount is found under the radiator support, the larger mount is used for the rest of the cab/body, 4 in a pickup, 8 in a 4Runner.
  • On top, from left to right, are a 2" dia. aluminum block, a 2" UHMW block, and a 2-1/2" UHMW block.
• Photo B, shows how the the Ultimate blocks match the diameter of the stock body mounts.
• Photos C and D show the 2" dia. aluminum blocks compare to the 2" dia. of the UHMW blocks
  • The UHMW material is slightly over nominal size

E. 1-piece body mount '89+ pickup/Tacoma w/ the various lift blocks	F. 2" aluminum block
G. 2" UHMW block	H. 2-1/2" UHMW block

While a few 1/8's of an inch doesn't sound like a big deal, the difference in area is dramatic, the 2" UHMW block has nearly 27% more surface area than an actual 2" block and the 2-1/2" UHMW block has nearly 80% more surface area. Surface area equates directly to pressure on the floor of the cab/body of the vehicle. Many aftermarket body lift kits only supply 2" dia. blocks which are probably sufficient for on-road and mild off-road use, but for extreme off-road service, you need all the surface area you can get, or something like this can happen (image I below):

I: Problem with too-small lift block	J: Larger Diameter Block

So if larger blocks are better, why stop at 2.5"? A few reasons not to use larger blocks:

• Certain body mount locations are fairly constrained and a larger block simply won't fit
  • In fact in image J above, observe how a larger block would have trouble resting flat against the cab floor due to the curve of the sheet metal
• The body mount bushing and reinforced pad on the body are only so large. Having excess block material hanging over the edge provides no added benefit
• Larger blocks use more material and cost more money, so best to use a block that approximates the size of the body mount

Bottom Line: The Ultimate blocks simply match the size of the existing body mount bushings, while the standard blocks are all the same (smaller) size.

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What color are the blocks?

The UHMW material comes in a natural white color, as shown in the section above. As a material, it is somewhat similar to Teflon in that it is very stain-resistant and most dyes and paints will not stick. 4Crawler Offroad has developed a process by which a colored coating is applied to the visible parts of the block, for those wishing a color other than white. This process is available at an additional cost of $1.00/block and is currently available in flat colors, black is the default. Click here to see an image of a colored 1" tall block . This is specified by ordering the CLR kit option. Of course, the 1" tall aluminum blocks are natural aluminum color. You may paint, powder coat or anodize them to your color preference.

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Standard vs. Heavy Duty Mounting Hardware:

Mounting hardware is offered in both a standard and heavy duty size and also in standard and heavy duty grade (see bottom of this section for more information on the standard size, heavy duty grade hardware).

Standard Grade, Standard Size hardware:

is designed to fit all the stock washers, bushings, etc. as-is, without need for modification. It is also of equal strength to the stock hardware (SAE Grade 5 ~ Metric Grade 8.8). These hardware kits cost $30-45 depending on application. Standard grade hardware is approx. 115,000 - 120,000 psi tensile strength.

Standard Grade, Oversize hardware:

The larger heavy duty hardware, is designed to be the maximum size and strength that can be installed in the vehicle without requiring major modifications. It may require re-drilling holes in some of the stock body mount washers (see installation instructions), but in the case of the pressed on tabbed washers, the oversize bolts have the larger diameter of the factory bolts under the head where they are enlarged for the press fit washer, so the old washers will often press fit back onto the new body mount bolts like stock. This option is only available on the early Toyota pickups and 4Runners. These hardware kits cost $30-45 depending on application. Bottom Line: If you lack the ability and/or tools to drill holes (7/16" or 12mm) dia. in steel washers, then go with the standard size hardware, or see below for another hardware option.. With the larger surface area, the oversize hardware is approx. 35% stronger than the standard size hardware.

Standard Size, Heavy Duty Grade Hardware:

Another option for upgraded hardware on the later model vehicles is using standard size, heavy duty grade (Grade 8) hardware. This option adds approx. $15 to the cost of the hardware kit and includes Grade 8 bolts for all the cab/body mounts. You can specify the type of hardware you desire at the time of ordering. With the standard size Grade 8 hardware, no modification to the stock body mount hardware is required. This option, listed as kit HD, can be specified on almost all the body lift kits. This option is generally recommended on lifts of 2" and higher, This option is availble for all aplications that list the HD option in the kit. Heavy duty grade hardware is made from an alloy steel that is tempered for approx. 150,000 psi tensile strength.

Standard Size, Stainless Steel Hardware:

Available for certain applications is a marine grade 316 alloy stainless steel hardware kit (316 alloy is highly resistant to salt corrosion). This option adds approx. $35-40 to the cost of hardware kit Stanless steel offers superior corrosion resistance over the zinc plated steel used in the standard and heavy duty hardware options. Stainless steel hardware is available by special order.

So which does 4Crawler Offroad recommend?

If ease of installation is important, get the standard size hardware

If low cost is important, get the standard grade hardware

If maximum strength and ruggedness is important, get the heavy duty hardware

If corrosion ressitance is important, get the stainless steel hardware

And of course, you can also supply your own hardware, if you want all metric or something even harger, it is your choice. Just let us know what diameter bolts you plan on using so the blocks can be pre-drilled to fit.

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What about manual transmission and transfer case shifters?

Manual transmissions and transfer cases have shift levers that are attached to the transmission (or transfer case) and extend up into the passenger compartment for access. Since the transmission or transfer case is attached to the frame, when the body is lifted, the shift lever "sinks" into the floor of the vehicle. With a 1" lift, this would probably not even be noticed. On a 2" - 3" lift, it probably is noticeable. Several options exist to correct this problem. One option is to cut the shift lever off near the base and have a sections of 1/2" dia. steel rod welded in to lengthen the shifter.

Another option is an extension that can be added to the top of the shift lever. As such, the extension will have an M12-1.25mm internal thread to match the end of the shifter and an M12-1.25mm external thread to accept the shifter ball to be re-installed on top. Note that this extension will only work on shifters that have a screwed on shift knob and only on ones without any sort of switch or actuator on the knob. Also note that this extension will typically not help reduce shifter binding at the floor penetration due to a body lift, it will only lengthen the shifter.

3" Extension (top) 2" Extension (bottom)	Shifter Extension Installed

Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension: $20.00 + shipping	Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension: $25.00 + shipping
US Delivery: $7.00 postage	US Delivery: $7.00 postage
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International Delivery: $13.00 postage	International Delivery: $13.00 postage

One extension will be needed for each shift lever that you want to lengthen. The extension length is measured along the smooth section, with an extra inch being threaded to accept the shifter knob. A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons above for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork.

One issue that shift levers can cause with body lifts is that as the shifter "sinks" into the floor, the distance from the lever's pivot point to the floor penetration is increased. This means that the shift lever sweeps out a wider arc in the various gear selection positions. Enlarging the hole in the floor is one option or bending the base of the shift lever is another option. A simple extension, while it makes the shift lever longer, will not help alleviate the clearance issues at the shifter boot. A better option to both extend the shifter and to shorten its throw is a short shift kit. Here is a short throw kit that bolts onto the Toyota transfer case shifters.

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What about automatic transmissions?

Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to 3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before ordering and installing a body lift lit.

The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y" indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is not needed, although some linkage adjusments will typically be required:

A/T Bracket Requirements

Application	1" Lift	2" Lift	3" Lift
'79-'88 Toyota Pickup	N	Y	Y
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner	N	Y	Y
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup	N	Y	Y
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner	N	Y	Y
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma	N	N	N
''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner	N	N	N
'02-'06 Toyota 4Runner	N	N	N
Toyota FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 Landcruiser	N	N	N
Mitsubishi Montero	N	N	N

2" A/T Shift Lever Bracket	Bracket Install Location	3" Bracket Kit, Installed

The bracket is priced at $45 (for 2") or $55 (for 3") as-is (for use on existing body lifts), That is if you have another brand body lift that does not include the A/T linkage brackets, this is the kit for you. A 2" or 3" lift is a 2" or 3" lift no matter what brand lift kit is used. A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork.. Consult the installation instructions for more details. The bracket is fabricated from 3/16" thick steel and includes new mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location (circled in red in the above-right image). The 3" spacer includes a bolt on extension for the upper shift linkage (circled in green in the above-right image) to prevent binding in the 2H position. Before ordering this bracket, see the important notes below:

Order a 2" A/T bracket: US$45.00 + shipping	Order a 3" A/T bracket set: US$55.00 + shipping
US Delivery: $7.00 shipping	US Delivery: $7.00 shipping
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International Delivery: $13.00 shipping	International Delivery: $13.00 shipping

Notes:

• A shipping charge of US$7.00 is added automatically with the ordering buttons above for Priority Mail (within the US) or Priority Mail International (outside the US), please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork.
• You should make sure you have a linkage-style transfer case shifter. Some A/T-equipped trucks have transfer case shifters that go directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission truck has. If this is the case, then do not orde